catbirdseat Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 What is it with the ratings at Royal Columns anyway? Everything seems way harder for its rating than anywhere I've climbed before. Harder than Leavenworth, Index, Mt. Erie, or Vantage. Is it just because it is generally more sustained climbing, or what? I've done some 5.3's at RC that seem harder than 5.6's at Great Northern Slab. Does it get easier as you get used to that kind of rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 yes it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 Most all of the classics at RC were put up by the end of the 80s, before the advent of the really hard-rated routes so often seen nowadays. Also, it's the kind of climbing that it is; it will get easier to you after you've been on it a while, as you learn what works and what doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 6, 2003 Author Share Posted May 6, 2003 erik said: yes it does Erik, you mean yes, it seems harder and yes, it will get easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 sorry! you will learn the intricacies of the rock and it will make you a better climber, i dont know if it will ger easier!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 climbing in a new area always takes some time to get used to the ratings/rock differences. tieton grades always seemed legit to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 I especially like the overhanging 5.7s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 (edited) I think the ratings are for the most part pretty good. The rock does require a different technique and that may be responsible the “stiff” ratings. Only one route I have climbed strikes me as being over rated in the area: Wildcat Crack. The thing that bugs me is the sometimes funky pro. The cracks often flare inward and do not constrict in a nice curve. Think of Paul Maul - no jamming, more like hole plugging, plus nuts are crazy on that route. If you spend a lot of time climbing at 38 or Vantage at least in the easier grades (5.0-5.10) you will end up with very distorted view of how ratings work at other areas. Oh yea, Stress Management seemed more like 5.10 to me and is given a 5.9. Overall Vantage PP Edited May 6, 2003 by Peter_Puget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted May 6, 2003 Share Posted May 6, 2003 I though First Blood (rated 5.8) was one of the hardest I've done for the grade. Then again, I didn't have any big gear and maybe I was climbing the wrong crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazandbruno Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 My climbing buddy and I are thinking about going to RC soon. Do you guys know where can i get a good route book? I have "Climbing Washington"...wondering if it is enough. And how long does it take to get there from Seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 Uncle_Tricky said: and maybe I was climbing the wrong crack. so true. I found "developing forearms" to be a tad stiff for 5.9 in places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 "Cascade Select" vol II has a nice selection of routes, but not many. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 You can get in a full day with the routes in Climbing Washington. Definitely do Orange Sunshine. I think it's 2+ hours from Seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 chazandbruno said: My climbing buddy and I are thinking about going to RC soon. Do you guys know where can i get a good route book? I have "Climbing Washington"...wondering if it is enough. And how long does it take to get there from Seattle. Chazandbruno, FYI, also see this thread . Drive time from Seattle is about 2.5 hours. Dox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted October 25, 2003 Share Posted October 25, 2003 Drive time from Seattle (I-5/I-90 intersection) to RC is about 3 hours, doing teh speed limit. It's just under 2.5 hours to Yakivegas (in forgiving conditions), then about another 20 minutes or so to the parking pull-out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted October 25, 2003 Share Posted October 25, 2003 iain said: Uncle_Tricky said: and maybe I was climbing the wrong crack. so true. I found "developing forearms" to be a tad stiff for 5.9 in places. You mean, like, the exit move? Locked armbar and can't move anything or ya peel? Yah, I know about that... Inverted a cam on a whipper from the exit move... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arlen Posted October 28, 2003 Share Posted October 28, 2003 chazandbruno said: My climbing buddy and I are thinking about going to RC soon. Do you guys know where can i get a good route book? I have "Climbing Washington"...wondering if it is enough. And how long does it take to get there from Seattle. The "Quick and Dirty" guide is aptly named, but it's handy when you have a best-of guide with good reference points. That's especially true if you're looking for easy or moderate climbs. And it's easy to photocopy because it's like a Kinko's special in the first place and the photos are basically unusable anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Haha! I did First Blood this weekend when a friend told me it was "Mushmaker." Pretty exciting arm-barring on what I expected was a hand crack :-). Luckily I took a 3.5 cam... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Columnar basalt. Same as Vantage, but much more solid and a way more cool place. The Tieton rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Actually it's Andesite, which is half basalt. Andesite is a fine-grained, extrusive igneous rock. It is intermediate becuase it contains some minerals that are common to rhyolite, and some common to basalt. It is always aphanitic and gray. It can look very much like basalt to the unaided eye, but it is usually less dark or greenish in color. Andesite magma is viscous and forms thick lava flows or domes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 What is the Rock at Royal Columns? Martin is correct. Too many people cornfuze columnar basalt with andesite. Move upstream about a mile to The Bend, and you do start to see a more classic exhibition of what most peeps regard as columnar basalt. Still, it's andesite. Moon Rocks, still further upstream, is the same stuff. Now, if you want to see a really classic example of columnar basalt (and capped by entablature), go to Wildcat Wall, up the Wildcat Creek drainage. Now that is columnar basalt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardKorry Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 my 2 cents on RC ratings... One reason they feel so stiff is that the routes are generally dead vertical for the whole pitch. If it's 5.8 it's 5.8 for 100'. I found that cams would often walk as the cracks often have internal flaring - its one place I've found my old hexes useful - especially as the cracks widen towards the top. I found focusing on finding good foot holds key to being able to send a pitch without needing to rest on gear. It's a great place for climbing. I think the area in the Bend by Salmon Song has 5 or 6 A+ climbs in about 30 feet. Watch for rattle snakes - especially the young ones that don't have good "poison" control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 I agree with that. A lot of routes at Smith Rock, for example seem graded for one or two moves (excluding the gorge). Tieton frequently seems continuous for the grade (as it probably should be, right?) Also, some of those climbs are just really weird and put you in strange positions, making you think more than you might normally need to. Others are more normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 My $.02 on Royal Columns ratings I find the RC ratings to be very close to how baslt is rated in the Columbia river gorge (Broughton's and Beacon)....a bit on the stiff side, with some exceptions. Orange Sunshine 10b Seems to be right on the mark. 10a-ish lower down, 10b-ish up top. The .8 crack just right of Orange Sunshine (I forget the name) Felt stiff at .8 This is in contrast to Vantage where I thought the ratings were on the soft side on many climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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