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Biggest Whipper!!!


EWolfe

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Sport: 40-footer trying to lead " Powerline" at that heap they call the beginning of Stateside sportclimbing, twice.

 

Trad: 20-footer at same heap, trying to aid "Toes of the Fisherman" (solo) and blew 2 pieces, landing 16" off of an obvious rock at the base...almost smileysex5.gif

 

- 15-footer repeatedly on a #2 loweball at the crux of "Japanese Gardens"... boxing_smiley.gif

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40 foot plus off of 1st pitch of Eagles Domain. fell 20 ft onto a cam which broke and ripped out

 

30 ft unzipping a string of 3 junk heads below some hook moves when a flake delammed while hooking it

 

I've taken 4 or 5 20-footers

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Sport: 20 footer

 

Story: climbing at the crag with a friend who I had climbed with in high school. The route begins with a 20 foot right traverse underclinging a 3/4 foot ceiling. The cieling is about 15 up. Well Danny is in running shoes, and begins his top roped traverse. I am paying him a lot of slack because the anchors are way to the right where the cieling turns vertical crack. Needless to say about half way across the traverse his feet come off the rock, he goes swinging upside down, and misses a boulder on the ground by inches. He would have hit his head! bigdrink.gif

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richard_noggin said:

I was strok'n the big 10 inch when my hand flew off and i knocked myself out. A little to the right or left and I could have lost an eye. Dang that was close! yelrotflmao.gifwave.gif

 

Save it for the spray forum, lame-o moon.gifrolleyes.gif

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I took a 40'er on the Flying Buttress on Mt Meeker in CO.

 

We got off route on the climb, and I was underclinging on this roof when a chunk of rock I was holding on to gave way. I fell head first with the rock next to me till the rope came tight. I slammed back into the wall and cut my face.

 

I was a bloody mess, but I managed to climb the pitch shaking and hangdogging like hell.

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minx said:

i've tried to come up w/every justification i can for that stupidity

 

fifth pitch, no sleep the night before, etc etc etc...but it's still stoooooooopid and embarrassing madgo_ron.gif

 

Hey...no justification necessary...stuff happens...good thing it was your shoulder not your head/neck/back...are you healed up???

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i climbed night'n'gale with a pardner. on the decent: we were about to rap the 100" grade 3 approach pitch that we had soloed on the way up. Crampons were balled up, I stupidly leaned into the slope and slipped. too fast/icy to arrest with worthless tools. death scream and everything. i kind of remember hitting a buldge then sliding down the snow cone at the base of the pitch. I was wearing a helmet and a pack with a rope in it. finally got my breath back. back hurt but i got right up and hiked out with the help of ski poles. we left after that. this was the first time I almost got it.

bigdrink.gif

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That would be on my first aid pitch, about 10 pitches up the Happy Hooker on Trono Blanco in Baja in 1978. It was mostly small wireds on a gently overhanging wall, and I didn't really know what I was doing. I didn't have enough nuts, so I'd been backcleaning, and forgot to clip at least one placement into the rope, several pulled, and I'd been top-stepped in the one that initially ripped. Couldn't really tell you how far the fall was, but it seemed to take forever as I did a backwards somersault. Saw the sky, the canyon floor, the wall flash by, and came to a stop. Reached out and caught my bandana as it floated by. The one large piece on the pitch, a #10 hex in a placment out of line of the pitch that a friend had told me about before we went down, saved my bacon. It took a really really really long time to finish that pitch, and I never did much take to aid climbing.

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Mr._Natural said:

Dru said:

an "unidentified friend" (who posts here) has a story about wedge that trumps all these fall lengths by about a factor of 10... 500 feet shocked.gifyellaf.gif so much for the chestbeating

 

check your math genius I said I fell 100 feet, hows that for chestbeeting.

 

actually, you said 100" which is 100 inches. tongue.gifrolleyes.gif

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40-50ft (can't remember which)-- Fell on Clean love... all the cams held.... I was only 2ft above last piece when I said 'fallin'...

my belayer slackened me up 'accidently' and i kept falling and falling and falling...next thing i know i am upside down approx 5ft from the ledge/pillar/death staring at me papa...

WTF dad...

sorry, i was grabbin my beer... i wasn't expecting you to fall...

 

Moral of the story: don't believe any beta you read about a route, I was going the wrong way, when i realized the routes suddenly traversed left and pumped out in the dirt. bigdrink.gif

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Biggest: 40-50 on El Cap, blew 6 pieces and had a 1 RP stopp me. If it handn't of held it would of turned into 75-100... Yikes

 

Scarriest: Whipper from the top of an ice route at Banks when the tree (anchor) I was holding onto ripped out of the ground. I fell almost the length of the route. I was upside down stairing eye to eye with my belayer when he caught me. Not sure of the length but probably around 45ft.

 

Falling is fun cantfocus.gif

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Scariest for me:

60 feet of free fall on a winter climb of the west face of Guye Peak when I was 17.

 

The fall was on a single 1980's 8mm rope onto a tipped out #1friend. Had the friend blown I would have been screwed. Also I managed to not get spiked with my sharp stuff.

chestbeat! chestbeat!

-----

 

 

 

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i decked from thirty feet once- luckily a bramble patch broke my fall, mostly scratched up and sore ankles. I didn't really notice the scratches at the time as i was in a mad scramble downhill immediately after hitting the deck to escape the hornets that i'd climbed up onto (some wierd kind of ground wasp or something) that caused me to lose my grip in the first place. it was a two-fer kind of accident.

 

I don't think i could have done anything different even if it happens again. cantfocus.gif

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