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skyclimb said:

Looking for good sport routes up to 5.10c. Wanting good multi's, and beta on good areas in the park!! Spending Friday, Sat, Sun there, so let me know if you have been or know people who have. thumbs_up.gif


Sport routes? At Castle Crags? Good luck finding many. DFA was there hiking a few years back, and passed a couple bolt lines on little crags by the trail on the way up, but the rest of the park is pretty tradly as the Doctor understands it. Word is the CC guidebook is back in print, though, maybe you can find it somewhere.

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There are a really limited number of sport routes around there. It's mostly a trad only area. And the scariest trad climbing area I've ever climbed at. Can you say RUNOUT, FLARING, CHOSSY, OUTMEAL GRANITE!!!!!???? Holy shit! That place is definitely an eye opener. There's good reason that though the place is huge with endless granite everywhere, the guidebook is only 20 pages! Most all of that stuff is just unprotectable. There are a few bolted lines on the way up the Castle Dome trail, though not many. Check out Windsong Wall, Pin Cushion Wall.

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Dru said:

Dude you are gonna suffer. I drove by there on Satyurday and it had like 4 feet of snow. Looked more like the sno-park than a rock destination.

snow... Every time I get to this place it rains... no wait it pours.

still it looks pretty sweet. cant wait to climb those spires! bigdrink.gif

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Climbed there a couple of years ago. Ran accross what looked like some home made hangers. Yes, home made. Looks like they were just 1/4 sheet metal that was bent at a right angle and had a hole drilled in them for you biner and the bolt into the rock. They were kinda scarry I didn't trust them. But I loved the climbing there.

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