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Best Onsight - Technical Rock


EWolfe

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Just curious about what you have done that really struck you, not necessarily the hardest thing...

 

For me it was onsighting Crack of Doom at City of Rocks, ID - it had been a goal for a long time to get good enough that I might...and I did!

Just to keep it honest - Nathan Kerr of Outward Bound belayed me....

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Inadvertently linking the last two pitches of Centerfold at Index (the anchor at the top of the third pitch had no hangars at the time.) I ran out of gear after the crux on the 4th pitch and had to finagle some interesting pro-stacked nuts and such-to finish.

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diedre in the rain.... it was my first multi-pitch and it started raining ... made it nice and sporty. i was proud cause the guy i was climbing with offered to take the crux as it was raiining, but i took it anyways... almost took a nice lil' whipper, but no harm no foul grin.gif

 

oh and thanks becky for that pin on the last pitch! saved mah azz! bigdrink.gif

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On a road trip we where driving throught Golden CO on our way to Ft. Collins. We where on a schedule but had time to swing into garden of the gods to check it out. We spotted a realy cool looking formation that we wanted to climb. I think it was called montazuma tower or something like that. After a quick investigation we found out that there was an easy bolted route up the thing. The only problem were the BIG BLACK CLOUDS roling in. We only had about 20 minutes so it was now or never. My climbing pack was burried in the trunk and we didn't have enough time to dig. I ended up just going for it in convers with 1'' webbing around my waist for a hanress. We where inspired by the approaching lightening to move fast. About 20 minutes later we jump in the car with all of our gear still on just as the sky lets loose.

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ahh we were talking about firsts this weekend..

 

i am at a toss up between the 2nd pitch of bale kramer the short crack on the steep wall, as it was my first into that grade. and i swore i wasgoing to whip!

 

or the 5.8 pitch i wanna say the 3rd or 4th of the e butt of el cap. i almost swallowed my tongue pulling th bulge....right after that i placed like 4 pieces. another breaktrough, but a cerebral one at that!

 

 

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The zip at Squamish - I was soooo close to blowing it, 'cause I kept shoving cams in at the crux, instead of just pulling through.

Also Wings of desire at Skaha (also hardest OS). I've never been that pumped for so long. I finally trembled to the no-hands rest and sat there for 10 minutes (no joke!) before pulling the roof.

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Damnation Crack-

I was climbing with a cocky guy who was way better than me-

he started up it- got really sketched when he reached the chimney and lowered down

I tied in and sent it! not really that hard technically, but felt good to sandbag him.

 

 

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Charlie said:

Damnation Crack-

I was climbing with a cocky guy who was way better than me-

he started up it- got really sketched when he reached the chimney and lowered down

I tied in and sent it! not really that hard technically, but felt good to sandbag him.

 

 

WAS THAT VP?? SAW HIM A FEW WEEKS AGO!!

 

yellaf.gif

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Geek_the_Greek said:

The zip at Squamish - I was soooo close to blowing it, 'cause I kept shoving cams in at the crux, instead of just pulling through.

Also Wings of desire at Skaha (also hardest OS). I've never been that pumped for so long. I finally trembled to the no-hands rest and sat there for 10 minutes (no joke!) before pulling the roof.

 

I fell low on a swing move on Wings, lowered, then sent - I was bummed I missed the onsight of that one cry.gif

 

Another great onsight was Overly Hanging out at Squamish, pulling the 5 roofs at the end on upside down pins and sliders was wild - just made that one...and one week later the pins were replaced by bolts, I heard.

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