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Seeking beta on Colchuck Northeast Couloir


Stephen_Ramsey
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I'm looking for information on the Colchuck Northeast Couloir. Has anyone out there done this route? Beckey grades it as II-III, but I have heard that the supposedly 60-degree headwall is more like 70 degrees, which sounds pretty sporty... Anyone know which of the finish variations is likely to be the least technical? Is the headwall at the top of the couloir the only really steep part of the route? My partner and I are a bit unsure if we are up to the route, so any information would be helpful.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Steve

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mattp, danielpatricksmith and I have done this route. When we did it in Feb 2002 it had alot less snow than in this picture.

 

The lower 3/4 of the climb is straightforward. The upper 1/4...your mileage may vary.

 

The only beta I can offer is that the path of least resistance may not be the most obvious couloir higher on the face, and that you very well may need two tools to get over short icy steps, and very well may need some rock pro and a rope to make those steps comfortable/safe. The technical difficulties we encountered were short but made the route a non-giveaway.

 

Alex

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We intended to climb that route last weekend, but, because of the cornices you see at the top and a small point release slide seen while we were debating how stable the cornice looked, we opted for the NE Couloir. The conditions were great in the NE Couloir if that's any indication, good secure step kickin.

 

I did hear from a friend this morning that there was a bunch of new snow at Colchuck lake this week. Not sure how much though.

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Looking over the NE Couloir from Triple Couloirs last weekend, it looked to be much more filled in than when Alex, MattP and I did it. I don't remember any 70 degree headwall. I remember a short section of steepish water ice, though. One piece of beta, at the top where it forks, take the left hand coulior as the right hand one ends in steep rock. Unless that's your thing, then take the right fork, who am I to tell you where to go?

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