Jump to content

Seeking beta on Colchuck Northeast Couloir


Recommended Posts

I'm looking for information on the Colchuck Northeast Couloir. Has anyone out there done this route? Beckey grades it as II-III, but I have heard that the supposedly 60-degree headwall is more like 70 degrees, which sounds pretty sporty... Anyone know which of the finish variations is likely to be the least technical? Is the headwall at the top of the couloir the only really steep part of the route? My partner and I are a bit unsure if we are up to the route, so any information would be helpful.


Thanks in advance,



Edited by Stephen_Ramsey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 9
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

mattp, danielpatricksmith and I have done this route. When we did it in Feb 2002 it had alot less snow than in this picture.


The lower 3/4 of the climb is straightforward. The upper 1/4...your mileage may vary.


The only beta I can offer is that the path of least resistance may not be the most obvious couloir higher on the face, and that you very well may need two tools to get over short icy steps, and very well may need some rock pro and a rope to make those steps comfortable/safe. The technical difficulties we encountered were short but made the route a non-giveaway.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

We intended to climb that route last weekend, but, because of the cornices you see at the top and a small point release slide seen while we were debating how stable the cornice looked, we opted for the NE Couloir. The conditions were great in the NE Couloir if that's any indication, good secure step kickin.


I did hear from a friend this morning that there was a bunch of new snow at Colchuck lake this week. Not sure how much though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking over the NE Couloir from Triple Couloirs last weekend, it looked to be much more filled in than when Alex, MattP and I did it. I don't remember any 70 degree headwall. I remember a short section of steepish water ice, though. One piece of beta, at the top where it forks, take the left hand coulior as the right hand one ends in steep rock. Unless that's your thing, then take the right fork, who am I to tell you where to go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...