Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
obsydian

TR - North Gardner

Recommended Posts

For an alpine climb less traveled, try North Gardner . This trip was Sat/Sun 4/19 & 20. Started at Cedar Creek trailhead, found the log crossing per Becky's book, went up through the thick trees. Definately want to do this early season with snow. Followed Shelokum Creek, hiked right in the creekbed as there was enough snow, eventually the creekbed narrowed and we climbed a cleared out old avy chute to the left. Traversed at 5,100', ran into a rock band that would have been avoided by going higher, still no problem, self belay with ice axe.

 

Camped at 5,800', nice views, got a dusting of snow. Next morning climbed the ridge, postholing quite a bit, clear weather. Nice ridge, ran out under the buttress at 7,200', most technical part of climb is here. Followed some elk tracks on horizontal traverse, then up a chute, found ourselves on a slab with little snow and no purchase, took awhile to pick out a route, very exposed and sketchy, some rock climbing, didn't rope up, didn't fall. Finally worked way to ridge again at 7,800'. From there just follow the ridge up to the summit at 8,900'.

 

Great views, had clear day (was expecting bad weatehr) able to pick out many peaks around. Downclimbed the ridge for about 500ft, then went down the West side to 6,800', then a gradual traverse back to camp, went through the tails of some avalanche runouts. Back to the cars by 7pm, could have been a bit faster.

 

A good non technical climb (with high exposure however), a great outing if you don't want to see anybody for 2 days, not many folks get back in there. 13 miles RT (seemed farther), 6,000' gain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Used the ice axe for sure. The exposure between 7,200' and 7,800' required self belay with ice axe, very careful foot placements, some cleaning of snow and ice out of rock for holds. Brought a 7mill 30m rope in case we got off route, didn't use. Snowshoes were handy for the approach and retreat from camp. No other technical gear needed. The sammich was good HCL.gif. Actually ran out of water on the summit, took longer to get there from camp then we figured.

 

Fortunately, sunglasses were needed! cool.gif

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kudos to you obsydian on having a great weekend with good weather and by yourselves. Don't think many ppl climb the Gardners..while not technical, it has a different flavor and it sure is a long SOB, no?

 

Many spring sluffs of snow coming down? Trying to figure out what snow coverage will be next week at the Liberty Bell group.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds like a great trip! did you end up climbing the North Ridge/ NE face? did you cross Cedar Creek at Shelakum Creek or downstream from it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anybody headed toward the Gardners from the other side (Wolf Creek Trail) out of Winthrop lately? I went in that way last year in June and was surprized that the trail and route was completely snowfree while everything else at that elevation was completely covered.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
j_b said:

did you end up climbing the North Ridge/ NE face? did you cross Cedar Creek at Shelakum Creek or downstream from it?

Went up the Northwest Route which includes the North Ridge and NE Face. We crossed below Shelakum creek and stayed on Left side, found two logs to cross Cedar Creek, one partially submerged and other upstream a bit that looked like the main crossing log. Was able to walk right up Shelakum creek for about 1/2 mile once it widened out, enough snow to cover creek, it was very nice. Route looks like a real bushwack without snow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

huckleberry creek provides pretty good alternative access from the north. cross cedar creek above its confluence with huckleberry creek and follow the prominent rib. an old trail can be found on the rib and the west slope of the huckleberry drainage. the northeast face of north gardner (rising out of the west fork) is a good moderate snow/ice/rock climb this time of year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×