Wyoming

[Wopper]

I am thinking of going to Wyoming this summer for a week and looking for ideas. Does anyone have any beta on the Exum on the Grand Teton or some interesting low/middle class rock/alpine climbs in the Wind River Range?

[Rodchester]

The Exum is a good route, although it can be crowded and you have to screw around with the park systems for permits. Unless you plan on blasting a one day round trip climb. 60 meter rope is the way to go on this route. A 50 meter will not be enough to rap off, so you need two ropes.

There are lots of other moderate rock routes in the tetons that are very accesible. Also the AAC climbers ranch is the best deal in the west, hands down.

The Wind River Range is great but has some access concerns. The North Wind Range is astounding. It sees far less traffic than the more popular areas like the tetons. However, it is very remote and requires between 15 to 25 miles of rugged trail hiking to get to the main divide area.

The North also has some great Alpine Ice/summer ice climbs. The North also has some classic glacier mountaineering routes.

The South Wind River Range is a bit more accessible and has a slightly dryer weather pattern than the North. The approaches are shorter and there are some absolute classics in the Cirque of the Towers area.

Mid-July through the first week in September is the best time to climb in the Winds and Tetons. June can be good but it can be bad.

There are plenty of good books on the winds and the tetons.

If you are on the North east side of the Winds for any reason, stop and eat at the "Cowboy Cafe" in Dubous. It just rocks!!! The rustic pine is a good place to water up too. They also have TeePees for rent in the middle of town for a cheap place to crash with showers and well within staggering distance to the bars and resturants.

Feel free to drop me a line if you need any more beta.

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Have a nice day.