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worlds hardest 10a at BOB wall ??


kevin

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I went to BOB wall in leavenworth on sat and tried to climb the 5.10a undercling/lieback crack. I forget the name, but its really obvious if you've been there. Goatboy and I got totally humbled by what I now think may be the hardest 10a in existance. Anyone out there climbed this crack before? what did you think? Is there just some trick I was missing?

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uh, I am DEFINATLY not a very strong climber. But 11+ or c/d? THe dude I was with could lead/hangdog up the thing after a while. And I got it toprope after a couple of hangs. This was when I was climbing 10ish on lead as opposed to Mt. Couch right now.The climb didn't feel any harder than Even Steven at Index and thats 11b and a heck of a lot longer. But, it has been a couple o' years.

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I think the key is w/o hangs and being on lead. One challenge with the BOB route is not filling your jams with your pro. In addition if you are leading it onsight you can't see much of the crack after it turns up so you have to be mor ego for it. On tr with a hang you can check the crack out.

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For me hanging on something makes it hard for me to grade, a short hang can make something feel way easier than it really is. As opposed to climbing something without falling where I have a good idea as to who hard it was. I said 11+ because I fell on lead and did it without hanging on toprope but maybe it was hot and greasy the day i did it.

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CLAonlead said:

So what was the weather like? It sounds like the rock was dry...how were the trails to the climbs? Thanks!

 

The weather was great last weekend, comfortably cool and mostly sunny. We climbed on icicle butress, BOB wall and castle rock and most everything was dry. Pretty close to perfect climbing conditions in my book.

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Retrosaurus said:

Peter_Puget said:

... I'd say 3 star except that it doesn't have easy access.

 

PP bigdrink.gif

Hmm. I see. Lack of easy access complicates posing and detracts from the quality of your climbing experience.

 

mitch that is a good thing.

 

and why want to climb something to access another climb instead of walking 5 minutes?

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Retrosaurus said:

Peter_Puget said:

... I'd say 3 star except that it doesn't have easy access.

 

PP bigdrink.gif

Hmm. I see. Lack of easy access complicates posing and detracts from the quality of your climbing experience.

yeah peter purgeit is right...climbing icicle butt to get to BOB wall is sucky,,,there should be chair lift or something....perhaps helicopter drop offs....every hour on the hour.......... fruit.gif

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Peter_Puget said:

Up to the Mole and Yellow Jacket Tower! Don't forget Midnight Rock!

we dont need one to midnight cause you can already drive to the top of tumwater and then free ride down on your mtbike or motorbike....Actually truestory: Ltown almost got a gondola to the top of Icicle Ridge but the '94 fireseason put that on indefinite hold.... snaf.gif

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Here's an image of me flailing on the "10a."

 

Hope Viktor gives it a more appropriate rating in the new guidebook.

 

I would love to see someone actually send this thing in good style. I didn't. IPA at Gustav's sure was good though. bigdrink.gif

 

Anyone know when the new L-worth guidebook is coming out?

 

Viktor?

 

5a1a55913a96d_161796-Resizesmaller.jpg.d2217804b1c2e96e520d204a82669133.jpg

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took a good whipper on that one last summer--even if you pull through the hard moves, your pumpin' arms must contend with some gritty shite afore you hug that tree. humiliated--definitely some unfinished business there. short, but a good climb if you are leading 10+/11-.

 

i didn't find any 'secret squirrel holds'. hellno3d.gif

 

goatboy, let's see that pic.

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