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adjustable daisy chains for aiding - comments?


cascadecowboy

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Adjustable daisies are necessary for today Aid climbing (sure u can do aid with regular daises…but so u can do 70º couloirs with hob nails boots)

It will definitely speeds your ascent and simplifies top stepping

I personally like the Yates adjustable daises. For the time, convenience, and $34 for the pair, it is extremely valuable and cheap

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I like em. I use two of 'em and a fifi for gettin in short, that way I don't have to loosen them when I get into the second step. Also If they get twisted and you try to get them really tight you can get annoyed, so just make sure they dont get twisted, or don't try to get them supertight and use your fifi for hanging from the piece.

 

That's what I have recently figured out.

Edited by COL._Von_Spanker
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I switched over last year, won't go back. I use the Metolius ones. They are nice, but you gotta keep them un-twisted, which isn't so bad once your used to it. I still use a fifi if I want to be in close to the piece real quick.

 

The best advantage of adjustables comes on overhanging pitches. It takes alot less energy to tghten them as you move up than it does to place a fifi. They make steep roofs a piece of cake.

 

On vert or less than vert I often will just keep them loose like regular daisies and use the fifi. It's time consuming to adjust them every move.

 

The biggest disadvantage I have found is that once weighted it is hard to loosen the buckel to get slack. Like when top-steping, you have to release the tension first, which is difficult once you are above the piece. Still this isn't so bad if you plan ahead.

 

Also, they are not full strength.

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