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johnny

Beckeyisms

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My comment in another thread about Beckey's "combative ascent through vine maple" in the Big Four description got me to thinking..... OK, hold on while I think.....just a second......

A statement like that would definately cause me to consider another route now that I know what he was referring to. (I likened the vine maple to combing ones hair backwards. Definately not a good experience!) Are there any other phrases that struck you in his books? Offhand comments that should cause one to shiver with anticipation, or fear, or just plain avoid the route like a plauge?? Just wondering.

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One of my favorites is on one of the variations to the route description of the N. Face of the N. Peak of Mt. Index -

".....ascend a steep rock wall to to a large hanging brush patch. Imitate a gorilla through the brush and bear right along the ...."

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"Here is a fine bivouac ledge, complete with running water and trophy-sized rodents."

"hey, does your boyfriend climb? want to go climbing with me sometime?"

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Here's one for the Canyuckers tongue.gif" border="0

"Although there were some good technical climbers north of the border, there was a general feeling when it came to big walls, they were dabbling in coloring books while Yosemite and other American climbers were painting masterpieces."

Statement about another party from Vancouver attempting to beat Fred to the 1st ascent of Slesse's NE Butt.

[ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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We pushed upward through the jungle.When not forcing a way for ourselves and our heavy packs through festoons of alder, we were taunted by jabs of devil's club or the prickly needles of Engelmann spruce....

The Southern Pickets beckoned me twice more, though not until memories of our original experience with the approach had somewhat dimmed.

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I thought Fred did get the 1st ascent of NE butt??

Here's a common one: "A piton was used for safety". I was at a recent slide show he gave, and he actually said this during his presentation. There's actually a pause in the sentence, as in "We used a piton... for safety."

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quote:

Originally posted by philfort:
I thought Fred did get the 1st ascent of NE butt??

He did. I just worded my sentence incorrectly giving the wrong impression.

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One of my favorite Beckey statements is in the route description for Liberty Crack.

"Note that the last portion to the route base sometimes has plentiful dropped booty. A clever ploy is to bring a climbing slave rolleyes.gif" border="0 to return the approach gear back to the road."

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Do you think Fred was non-gender specific in that last phrase by accident or on purpose?

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I enjoyed Fred's description of Spectator Spire in the southern guide:"...a climber-loosened rock crashed into the roof of a Buick parked below..."

"The ascent was made by mass tyrolean traverse..."

"A direct route has not been made, probably because of unsound rock."

FA: Who else?

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Heard a rumor that Beckey insisted that the rack be carried outside the pack. When babes approached, Beckey would order that the rack be "jangled", thus increasing the chances of interrogation. I've found it to be more efficient to just buy them drinks.

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Definitely Charlie's pcik is my favorite Beckey-ism.

Another good one is "It appears that the route should provide no difficulties."

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"Use the marginal belay bush."

This opens it up the topic of grading belay's. When does it become bomber? When you equalize between 3 marginal bushes??

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from the first ascent of Hozomeen, in reference to an earlier incident in a cafe where someone had spewed hot coffee on a waitress:

"We traveled late at night, stopping in cafes where we were not known."

Any Fred reference to "steep" or "steepening" should be taken very seriously.

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"yea, it's like 5.10" -- describing the road leading up to the Mt. Rexford area.

"that would make a fine bivouac" -- standing outside the Howe Sound Brewery looking at the couch in the corner.

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"Yes, but teflon doesn't stick!"

One of my favorites!

Here's some more:

"Good God, It's like a Buick dealership in here! Who let in the mocktards?"

"Oh fine. Be that way."

"Did you know "squeezin'" rhymes with "pleezin'?"

"El Torro, ho!"

"Oh my god, not another mountain!"

"Hey, a fish could live in there."

"Orbit is defined by various factors that DON'T include personal hygiene."

I forget the rest.

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A couple of classics.

descent: Good rappel horn near the summit.

Up chimney for 50 ft on aid (about 7 points), then move easily (5.8) to belay amid perched blocks. 120ft.

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I like, "A route on this intimidating face has been avoided for many years but was climbed by Andy Cairns and Bill Thompson in July 1985."

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From the Lake Serene Trail:

"follow the classic "tree root" path to an old cabin; here take the tread that begins from the front door and not the one that starts at the waterfall. Continue up the cliffy forest on foot and hand"

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