johnny Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 My comment in another thread about Beckey's "combative ascent through vine maple" in the Big Four description got me to thinking..... OK, hold on while I think.....just a second...... A statement like that would definately cause me to consider another route now that I know what he was referring to. (I likened the vine maple to combing ones hair backwards. Definately not a good experience!) Are there any other phrases that struck you in his books? Offhand comments that should cause one to shiver with anticipation, or fear, or just plain avoid the route like a plauge?? Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 One of my favorites is on one of the variations to the route description of the N. Face of the N. Peak of Mt. Index - ".....ascend a steep rock wall to to a large hanging brush patch. Imitate a gorilla through the brush and bear right along the ...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 "...low fifth class climbing leads to the summit...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 "Here is a fine bivouac ledge, complete with running water and trophy-sized rodents." "hey, does your boyfriend climb? want to go climbing with me sometime?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 Here's one for the Canyuckers "Although there were some good technical climbers north of the border, there was a general feeling when it came to big walls, they were dabbling in coloring books while Yosemite and other American climbers were painting masterpieces." Statement about another party from Vancouver attempting to beat Fred to the 1st ascent of Slesse's NE Butt. [ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 We pushed upward through the jungle.When not forcing a way for ourselves and our heavy packs through festoons of alder, we were taunted by jabs of devil's club or the prickly needles of Engelmann spruce.... The Southern Pickets beckoned me twice more, though not until memories of our original experience with the approach had somewhat dimmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 I thought Fred did get the 1st ascent of NE butt?? Here's a common one: "A piton was used for safety". I was at a recent slide show he gave, and he actually said this during his presentation. There's actually a pause in the sentence, as in "We used a piton... for safety." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 quote: Originally posted by philfort: I thought Fred did get the 1st ascent of NE butt?? He did. I just worded my sentence incorrectly giving the wrong impression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 One of my favorite Beckey statements is in the route description for Liberty Crack. "Note that the last portion to the route base sometimes has plentiful dropped booty. A clever ploy is to bring a climbing slave to return the approach gear back to the road." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 Do you think Fred was non-gender specific in that last phrase by accident or on purpose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 I enjoyed Fred's description of Spectator Spire in the southern guide:"...a climber-loosened rock crashed into the roof of a Buick parked below..." "The ascent was made by mass tyrolean traverse..." "A direct route has not been made, probably because of unsound rock." FA: Who else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotan_of_ballard Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 "the WAC (Wallingford Alpine Club) is great" while hanging on 2 busty babes about a third his age, after stuffing his face at the potluck/slideshow party. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 Heard a rumor that Beckey insisted that the rack be carried outside the pack. When babes approached, Beckey would order that the rack be "jangled", thus increasing the chances of interrogation. I've found it to be more efficient to just buy them drinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 Definitely Charlie's pcik is my favorite Beckey-ism. Another good one is "It appears that the route should provide no difficulties." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Copperhead Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 "Use the marginal belay bush." This opens it up the topic of grading belay's. When does it become bomber? When you equalize between 3 marginal bushes?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 from the first ascent of Hozomeen, in reference to an earlier incident in a cafe where someone had spewed hot coffee on a waitress: "We traveled late at night, stopping in cafes where we were not known." Any Fred reference to "steep" or "steepening" should be taken very seriously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 "The route is class 4 except for a few aid moves" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_Bourne Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 "yea, it's like 5.10" -- describing the road leading up to the Mt. Rexford area. "that would make a fine bivouac" -- standing outside the Howe Sound Brewery looking at the couch in the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 "Yes, but teflon doesn't stick!" One of my favorites! Here's some more: "Good God, It's like a Buick dealership in here! Who let in the mocktards?" "Oh fine. Be that way." "Did you know "squeezin'" rhymes with "pleezin'?" "El Torro, ho!" "Oh my god, not another mountain!" "Hey, a fish could live in there." "Orbit is defined by various factors that DON'T include personal hygiene." I forget the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glacier_dup1 Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 'Descend the obvious gully' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 A couple of classics. descent: Good rappel horn near the summit. Up chimney for 50 ft on aid (about 7 points), then move easily (5.8) to belay amid perched blocks. 120ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 After being introduced to a married yet attractive female, "hey there, you sure are looking healthy". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 I like, "A route on this intimidating face has been avoided for many years but was climbed by Andy Cairns and Bill Thompson in July 1985." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 From the Lake Serene Trail: "follow the classic "tree root" path to an old cabin; here take the tread that begins from the front door and not the one that starts at the waterfall. Continue up the cliffy forest on foot and hand" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 I heard from a reliable source that Fred might actually surf this site. Fred if you are out there hello! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.