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Culture Shock, Exit 38


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This was several years back.

 

Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say was originally chipped, and some say was just a pretty good hold. Churning having one or two suspiciously uniform pockets on it anyway, the former would not be a big surprise. Anyway! Rumor has it that Cory's girlfriend was working on Churning but was having trouble, and so for her birthday, he drilled out the aforementioned jug a bit bigger, so she could cop a better rest and get the send.

 

Now, Churning is an immensely popular route at Smith, as you may have noticed, and it's a very fun climb. Needless to say, many local climbers were not happy to hear that a Smith Rock icon had been retro-chipped, and Cory was essentially run out of town. 'Cause who would want to associate with the guy who chipped Churning? Exactly. That Cory was the chipper is not in doubt. The circumstances surrounding the chipping (For his girlfriend's birthday? C'mon!) have probably been embellished, as they sound a little too convenient and foofy to be true (fabricated, perhaps, to further denigrate Mr. Jones?), but there you have it.

 

Although according to Alan Watts recently, Churning is apparently at least as hard as it used to be, so enough other choss must have come off over the years to balance out the new comfybucket. Apparently a natural pocket near the top has also crumbled recently, leaving a shitty pinch which gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck.

 

There ya hav'it!

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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

This was several years back.

 

Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say (snip to save the pain of having to read it again) gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck.

 

There ya hav'it!

 

 

 

Is it just me, or is sportclimbing lore pretty inane?

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ScottP said:

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

This was several years back.

 

Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say (snip to save the pain of having to read it again) gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck.

 

There ya hav'it!

 

 

 

Is it just me, or is sportclimbing lore pretty inane?

 

TONIGHT AT TEN! LIES, DECIET AND MURDER AT THE LOCAL CRAG! WHEN SPORT CLIMBING'S BEST TURN BAD!

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salbrecher said:

Isn't Exit 38 an old rock quarry?

No, some of it is natural rock walls, but some was the result of blasting for a railroad cut, some one hundred years ago. The weathering over the years has made it hard to tell exactly which faces were blasted and which were there already.

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catbirdseat said:

salbrecher said:

Isn't Exit 38 an old rock quarry?

No, some of it is natural rock walls, but some was the result of blasting for a railroad cut, some one hundred years ago. The weathering over the years has made it hard to tell exactly which faces were blasted and which were there already.

 

its a safe bet the glued on river rocks weren't there originally.

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as far as churning- the hold chipped wasn't the rest bucket, but the little pocket/crimp before you get there. there were definite marks. it used to be an ok hold and then snyde broke it. there was also a little foothold right at the bucket (6th bolt), which completly broke off and with the gas pocket crumbling made it into a real 7c+. on the other hand dime edge is not dime size anymore. and yes- sean olmsted (aka skippy) drilled 2 pockets back in 89.

cory's churning chip job wasn't the single episode of his route "improvement" and i must say he was a shifty little twarp.

also joe brooks and his ascent of bad man- where sudenly a 2 finger pocket (in the middle of the crux) apeared after his ascent. his new route/ abortion on the right side of agro wall was a total fuckup of established 12 a (highway to hell?). what do you expect though- blue warter (blew in water) ropes were paying him $1000 for every 5.14 he did, so for that much money most of the dirt bag climbers not only wouldn't hesitate to alter established routes, but they would let you shelaque a big syrup load down the throat at the back of hidden forest cave

Edited by glassgowkiss
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