jj221 Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 (edited) I was looking through my Beckey guide last night, dreaming, when I saw a photo of the southwest (? I think) side of Mt. Index and a route called Super Couloir. It looked too good to be true. There is a description for the route as well. Why is it I never hear about this climb? Does it ever come into condition? Is there something nasty I’m missing? MAJOR ERROR: The route I am/was questioning is on the northwest face of the North Peak of Index. It can be viewed on page 227 of your 3rd Edition Beckey guide. The Route is the prominate couloir between the North Face and West Face. At about mid height there is a fork in the couloir with either branch looking possible but hard. Is there any info on this mystry line? P.S. sorry for the wild goose chase. Edited March 11, 2003 by jj221 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daisy Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 hey, i think all the hardmen want to have spindrift couloir on their tick list instead once you do it, and if you spray about it, a lineup will form Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dumpster_Diver Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 There is this book called Selected Climbs in the Cascades Volume 1. I believe information regarding this climb is in there including a few pics. The name might be called Eve Dearborn Memorial Route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 Super Couloir is on SW face of N peak I thought Eve Dearborm MR was on the northeast face of middle peak. Hello?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 and by the way, NOW would be the ideal time to get on either of these routes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 Dru said: Super Couloir is on SW face of N peak I thought Eve Dearborm MR was on the northeast face of middle peak. Hello?? They are both on the N. Peak Dru. The route descriptions read pretty close except SC veers right mid height and the EDM descripton doesen't explicity mention getting out of the main couloir. Also Beckey lists the SC FA in February '89 and Nelson dates the FA of EDM as Feb '88. Now we're getting somewhere. This could be another "spindrift couloir" controversy in the making except not enough people have climbed the route here to spray about downgrading and where it actually gains the ridge. FA on both route descriptions are Nelson/Bebie however, the Edition of Selected Climbs I'm referencing is '93. The CAS is circa '96 so why the name discrepency if it is the same route? I still think they are the same one, but I can see how you could get cornfused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 I'll wait for PMS to offer the definitive answer if these are the same route or what. It does sound like some discrepancies there although I would bet the description from the guy who did the route would be most accurate in many cases.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 how true! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 I always assumed they were the same thing. Since both climbs have the same first assenionists, and neither have been repeated (probably), then no one should really care. Go up there, look at the climb, do it. It's not Squamish, you can climb all over the face and it's still the same route basically! No one cares what variation was took on a snow/ice climb unless the F.A. team is in question like spindrift. But, climbing is pointless anyway so might as well squabble. I vote they are the same, even if they aren't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj221 Posted March 11, 2003 Author Share Posted March 11, 2003 Please read the edited post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 I guess the route I was thinking was EDMB is the 1978 route on E/NE face of Middle Pk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted March 13, 2003 Share Posted March 13, 2003 They are the same climb. Fred has the year correct, Feb. 89. Any snow left up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 no. its been raining at 5000 for 4 days now. a la nina might form for winter of 2003/2004...hopefully colder than this year has been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 JJ, the Eve Dearborn Mem. Route is on the NW face of North Peak, I believe it's just to the right of the gully your looking at in the Becky guide. I think the gully your looking at is the one that Eve and her partner fell in. I don't think it's been climbed. EDM is "in" less than drury. It requires COLD temps, like Arctic front, as all these gullies are garbage chutes, and can only be climbed if frozen. It's lower elevation too so that makes it even worse. I believe it was climbed last year, I heard Nelson was there but backed off because 2 teams got on it in front of him. Coincidentally I was just up there today hiking the approach, I think it needs to be snow covered otherwise it's vertical bushwhacking. I soloed the North face 2 summers ago and downclimbed it so I would know the descent for EDM, man there's some manky rap anchors. Nelson said it took most of a day just to get down the thing in winter. I would go with Nelson's date of Feb 88 on the first ascent as he was one of the ones that was on it. (Unless he made a mistake in his own book, which is possible.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Buckaroo, Your information is right on for the most part. I looked at my slides the other night, and Fred has the date correct for the climb I made with Mark Bebie in Feb. 89. The gully that Eve and Phil White were on was located between the North & Middle Peaks I believe. It is a spectacular and not real technical looking line. It seems like the Index Peaks have quite a few un-repeated routes. Probably because the Mt. is full of green things, and the rock is hard and brittle for the most part. That’s why I like it in the winter mostly, though I would like to do the classic north face-North Peak climb in summer some time. I hear it’s fun. Some likely un-repeated lines that come to mind are the Klewin/McNerthney, Sumner/Dunham, Doorish/Farnham, and probably some of the summer west face routes, and maybe some others too. Last winter I was on the north face of the North Peak with John Cooper. I like that climb a lot. We had to turn back partly due to ice fall from a party of 4 (I think) above. Actually kind of a close call, as we were just about to commit to the crux pitches at the top of the bowl when the ice falls started. Thing is, we would have been ok if they had been rappelling down the ascent route rather that the upper north face. It would have been easier for them too, as the rappels are real straight forward there. I would have thought they would have been aware that they were endangering the other parties below, when they decided to take their short-cut. Surely they new there were two other parties on the climb below them. I guess that’s what I get for popularizing the climb. Conditions were exceptional when we were there (I think it was early March but not sure). I had a good look at the Klewin/McNerthney and thought it looked to be in great condition, as I expect the Supercouloir/EDM was also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 I'd like to take photos of anyone climbing on the NNW buttress. IF you are going for it in summer send a message. Is a south norwegian weaker or less than a north norwegian? What is the naming convention idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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