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Dry tooling etiquette


salbrecher

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sal,

dry tooling, while fun, is generally frowned upon at a rock climbing area. but if there is a crappy route that rarely sees traffic then it would be a good place to train. or just come up to alaska, pretty much all of our rock is crap and you can dry tool any of it you want. cantfocus.gif

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I think some one mentioned it being cool to scratch up the rock face that I think Jim sanford drilled a line of pockets in to. Its located in the cacodemon boulders below the chief. I think you can get a top rope up but i dunno for sure.

 

I poked my head around the chief today and if it stays cold you could proly find all the smears and such you want in the bullet heads.

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salbrecher said:

I'm just wondering what the the standard etiqette is on dry tooling at local crags? Is it frowned upon? Will people TRY to kick my ass? Anybody know any areas in Squamish where one can do it?

 

dude, i would not TRY, i WOULD kick your 6'6" ass for dry tooling established routes!

 

it is only lazy to do so, when up in Cheakamus Canyon, are hundreds, nay thousands, of bluffs covered in edges, snow, and frozen moss and dirt, perfect for practicing on, and with convenient TR anchors and nary an established route

 

or you can have a go at the Chipit on Kakodemon Rock. it is 11b which means M6+ as a dry tool route rolleyes.gif no ice on it look for the line of jack hammered out bowling ball type pockets on the uphill side of Kakodemon Rock. since you wont find many lines of chipped pockets out there on real mixed routes it is just strength training and you d be better off taping the heads of your tools and playing dry tool in the gym.

 

 

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