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texplorer

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cracked said:

Where you need it to be good, the rock tends to be decent. Where it's lower angled, though, watch out. I agree, Jack is decent. But the last five feet to the true summit scare me. Can you say "crackerjack"?

 

the summit is sold, dude... the very top, where you have to stratle the tippy top is a little exciting, but I've free soloed that mountain more than once, and there is nothing sketchy about the south ridge route... now the ledge that swings around from the south ridge to the east face and the climb up the east shoot, now that is sketched...

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cracked said:

I guess my balls just aren't big enough. I like Washington (the mountain) , but find 3FJ interesting every time. I did get my mom up it, though. Maybe I'm just a pansy.

 

Not true if you made it to the top... I took one of my cityfyd friends you there and he got scared and never made it past the shimmy(little shelf on the south ridge) ... It was another solo summit for me... it kinda suck though, because I had never been to the top with some one else, and had hoped he would make it..

bigdrink.gif

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iain said:

3FJay is a classic for september. great fitness run when nothing else is planned, nice long jog and then some fun scrambling. luckily smoot writes it off as a total chosspile (partly true).

 

beinz your from portland which way you come in on it from...

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Fejas said:

Eany one brave the acsess fron the east (timmy)... the gap is a great place to camp, but a terable place to climb from... is there any routs wrouth climbin' from this side???

 

bigdrink.gif

 

the one time i've been up... we accessed via Jack Lake Trailhead, hiked up into the meadows, then you trend south up and over a ridge, traverse a nasty scree slope and hook up with the normal south ridge route at a prominent saddle before the scramble begins.

 

3fj is beautiful from the east side and this approach, i reccomend it.

 

while it is very true that the climbing is not difficult, the airiness of the summit is pretty fucking sweet. i like seeing my shadow waaaaaay the hell over there, waaay down there, ya know? the other thing is the interesting spider looking glass like rock on the top where lightening has struck the summit.

 

isn't it true that the mazamas don't allow their club climbs to go to the true summit since there is a supposed loose block up above the frist "chimney"

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the mazamas are notorious for shutting that mountain down when they lay seige to it. I have no problem with the mazamas except when they hit up 3fj and mt. wash. They are a danger to everyone climbing that day. As for TFJ another good route is the east gulley when fully iced up. It exits right at the crawl. But hazardous access crossing notorious avi slope from sth ridge. Mtn rescue has done some training lowers down the west face of jack. terrible graham cracker rock down there, don't recommend it. Tons of booty though, mostly from outward bound. snaf.gifyellaf.gif

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indeed, imagine that scree slopes around there have some hidden goodies, but dont' know why one would want to hang out around there too long. i don't know if my nutz are big enough to venture onto any other routes on that mountain, i like the dog route, because i'm a sallly

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Yeah I did that east approach connecting w/ the main route like Timmay was talking about. I'll admit, I stopped just short of the true summit, didn't really feel like doing any au chaval (whatever, French for straddling) unroped w/ no one around, figured I was w/in spitting distance and that was close enough. Just for fun I descended to PCT, followed it N to saddle on N side of 3FJ, then off trail thru upper meadows, back up to the moraine lake, and back out to trailhead I started from. Pretty sweet circumnavigation/climb, between 1/2 day and full day.

 

The whole thing w/ volcanoes being choss, sure the approach is pretty sucky, lots of scree. But when you're actually CLIMBING I thought it was solid.

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cracked said:

About that east couloir that exits right below (above?) the Crawl, when does that thing get iced up? In the spring? Must be hard to get perfect conditions, no?

hard to say since it's a pain to get in there much of the time, but whenever it's cold and clear basically after some freeze-thaw. need good coverage.
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I think the route (SE Couloir)is totally happening right now. The weather is obviously not happening, but you should be able to drive to the Jack Lake Trailhead now, which makes it a unique time to go do it. Usually, by the time the trailhead melts out, the route is out of shape.

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