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Steel Cliffs, now thru end o' april if you haven't already. What fun.


3 Sisters on skis rolleyes.gif


M. Sister Ice Hose (NE face?)


N. Sister Early Morning Couloir


The ever classic Newton Clark Headwall


Illumination rock


Triple crown of the gorge: Dog, Ruckel, Defiance in a day. Make it special and swim the columbia yellaf.gif

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We met at Shredder's slide show/party. I know you're an aspiring rock/alpine climber. Having spent lots

of time in the Sierras, Tetons, Winds, etc. I can sympathize with you. How is it that we live in this amazing

place - on the threshold of the Cascade Range and all everyone wants to do is slog up the same 5 trade

routes, and hang at Smith Rock.


Have you climbed Green Giant Butress - Giant Tears, or the Kone? I think there are some "real" climbs

in the Darrington neighborhood (here it comes...). The Washington Pass/Wine Spires rock looks pretty good.

Squamish has some fine rock routes.


Adams Glacier is a nice route if you haven't done it. The north and east side of Adams are rarely visited.

Crack open the Becky guides and review the section on Mt. Rainier. There are some big technical glaciers

on that mountain that see very little traffic. It's in our back yard!


But why limit your search to OR? Have you seen the new Alpine Guide for B.C. by Mclane? I recommend

John Baldwin's "Mountains of the Coast: Photographs of Remote Corners of the Coast Mountains." Peter

Croft and Conrad Anker have been pioneering some stuff there recently. That's the future of alpine climbing

in the Northwest (especially if all these f*ing glaciers keep melting)


What's my excuse? I have a ball and chain "real" job, a girlfriend, and I'm gett'in old (I'm not fat yet). Take

my advice - don't waste your youth on B.S. like work, or love. Go climbing! And take some of these wankers

with ya - they're spending way too much time on CC.

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On top of what Know Fear has suggested, I might add the Bugaboos, the Winds, Wallowas, and in winter don't discount the idea of Montana for some ice. I drove from Portland to Bozeman on a 4-day weekend and got 3 full days of climbing in at Hyalite.


Sometimes its frustrating being in Oregon because we are so close, yet so far, from some spectacular areas. City of Rocks is not that far away either. I've made it to Washington Pass in 9 hours and been able to knock off several routes in a weekend.


Hope this helps.

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Has anyone done Dog, Ruckel, and Defiance in a day? What order did you do it in? And how long did it take you? I thought about doing this last Summer but did not get around to it. The order I would do it in would probably be Ruckel, Defiance, and then Dog.

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Actually the Black Spider has an easy 5.6-AI3. Very classic

Goes up the Right coulior and goes left up a hidden ramp . At the end of this , up a 5.6 hand crack.

Ted Davis probably did the FA of this in the early 70s.




It was the first ascent of the Black Spider.

It has seen a repeat.

Must have low avvy.

Must get early start.


The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes.


It has the hardest ice in Oregon, WI5+-A2.

It catches scary sun first thing madgo_ron.gif

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Aha! Wayne, is this something you've hinted at before (don't remember the venue) as the great unknown on hood? Glad you spilled it. I was fishing for a comment from you by listing NCHW.



This way we'll get more SAR on the E. side.

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Thanks for the replys everyone, I'm off to do Steins pillar tommorrow but I'll start looking at that black spider. I have heard about it but only in terms of the typical "sick, death route" blah blah blah. Sounds like and interesting and maybe even doable route.


I agree there is actually a ton of stuff within a days drive from here but I was just wondering about stuff more local. I have heard good things about the Wallowas.

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I got it wrong , it has seen 5 ascents via 4 different routes . I loaded the routes(see attachment) and drew in the lines from left to right : Elder-Russel IV-5.7?

Arachnophobia IV+-5.9+-AI4

Davis Ramp II-5.6-AI3

Black WidowIII-AI5+-A2

I have copies of the topo in Climaxe and PMS stores. It is due out in The new Oregon High whenever that comes out.


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CascadeClimber said:

The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes.


I'm trying to work out the logistics of this one. Maybe my math skills are rusty, but I can't figure out how a face can have six established routes and only five ascents.





yelrotflmao.gif Must be more than a little rusty... yelrotflmao.gif

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wayne1112 said:

wayne1112 said:

The Spider has seen 5 ascents, via 6 different routes.



It could Happen! grin.gif


yeah if the team were on hallucigenic drugz....


i climbed elcap once 14 times in a day....


its true, i have the tracers to prove it!!!


i think!



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