Gaston Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 On Saturday I climbed New York Gully on the north face of Snoqualmie mountain with my friend J. It was in predictably poor condition, with little solid ice and substantial sugar snow concealing rock holds and protection opportunities. Our route matched very well with the photo in Nelson, although I think we skipped the last pitch in the dihedral/chimney system by traversing off to the right. Like many other parties who have done the climb this year, we found that several landmarks from the route description were missing--the chockstone, the small tree belay, the overhanging flake. But the box gully is unmistakeable, as is the feeling of climbing 5.8 AI4 A2 in marginal condition. The frozen moss lumps were amazingly strong; I weigh 185 and did pull-ups on them in a couple of spots. I suppose they are mostly water...We did eight roped pitches, all of wich I led, partly because it was J's second time using ice tools and partly because he lost a crampon immedietly after starting up the box gully. He followed with exceptional speed, considering. We took 15 hours car to car. Here is the rack we brought: 1 set of nuts 6 cams covering 1/2 inch to 3 inches 2 lost arrows (3 would be better) 4 knife blades 4 full length runners 4 double length runners 2 quick draws We used one 50m rope, but if I were to do it again (no way in hell) I would take two 60s. Retreat was an unpleasant thought because the traverse at the beginning brings you out over a big drop that one rope would not get you down. If anyone goes up there soon (ha ha), please pick up the Grivel crampon at the end of the second traverse pitch and email me--I'll send you cookies for it. I was skeptical at first about the Grade IV designation, but no longer. This is my first trip report on cc.com, so let me know what I left out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 Congratulations! Great TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 Your buddy sounds like he had a good time....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ski_photomatt Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Glad to hear you made it out safely Gaston. We saw your snow-shoes cached at the col leading down towards the route on our way to the Slot Couloir. Your (down) steps were useful climbing out of the basin back up to ridge later in the day Congrats on the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcollins Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Now this is a trip report. Direct, consice, and no bullshit. I hope you post more reports, cuz this is what's needed on this site. Tell us the gear, the time, and leave the rest to those who have the balls to get up and climb! Your partner rocks for following up such a sufferfest without spikes!! Damnit this is what climbing is all about! Index epic to fo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcat Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Post deleted by mattp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 wayne what was your rack on the gully? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 I'm pretty sure I know who you are gaston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 I had to take extra for solo belaying. I took aprox 4 cams 4 stoppers and 4 pins , 2 screws(no need) and a single 50 m. 9mil. Tiblocs trashed it early. Guys , Nice work on the Snowq . I cant wait to repeat it when it has more ice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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