[TR] Terror, Himmelhorn, Degenhardt, Pyramid - N buttress (attempt), Wild hair crack, NW and W routes 07/04/2025

[JonParker]

Trip: Terror - N buttress (attempt), Himmelhorn - Wild hair crack, Degenhardt NW+E route, Pyramid - W route

Trip Date: 07/04/2025

Trip Report:

 

Drawbridged again in the pickets for the second time in a week.

 

After the standard rap into the couloir north of Otto-Himmel col my partner @aikidjoe  encountered a moat that appeared impassable.

He ascended back to the station and I took a look down the next gully skiers left. From lower down I could see it would have been no good to try the moat (which would have required an absurd running leap) because another moat was not far below that one.

I kept descending adjacent to the couloir, finding mostly solid, even fun, exposed class 4. There was a short low fifth corner with a lemon cake sized block that kept it secure. I passed a slung block with old webbing.

Where things cliffed out I found some good .1-.2 cam sized cracks that could be used for a rap anchor.

My 60m rope easily reached continuous snow from there (maybe 20m rap).

Last year at exactly the same time of year I downclimbed continuous snow down this couloir without even needing the first rap. And last year was a low snow year too. So I was pretty surprised at the state of the couloir. This workaround skiers left seems viable to me. Posting it here in case it helps anyone. 

The false start and exploration ate up enough time that we decided to bail on our plans for the Stoddard route and head back up to climb WHC instead. My partner was bemused because he expected a crack climb

The day had started clear. On our way back down from O-H dark gray clouds moved in to block the ridge. I was glad we weren’t somewhere high on the north buttress of Terror.

Next day was quite socked in. We headed off for Degenhardt, accidentally heading up from the south before correcting course for our intended NW route from near Terror’s east col.

To gain the couloir there was short choke that steepened at the end to maybe 80 degree snow. We underestimated the angle from below. Odd, usually it’s the opposite. We were able to bypass this on slabs on our return. 

The foreboding weather and lack of visibility gave the climb a serious feeling. As it gradually cleared on the way back the route started to feel easier.

There is plenty of choss on Degenhardt but I recall the scramble being pretty fun. While extracting the summit register I dropped its pencil down some hole. Sorry.

From there we groped our way slowly toward Pyramid. The route finding in the clouds was trickiest near Degenhardt. Was glad to carry ax/whippet all the way due to about ten steps through a narrow and steep snow couloir to get to Pyramid’s rock pyramid. We had peek a boo views into McMillan cirque but could see nothing at all to the east.

By the time we passed back west of Degenhardt the clouds were lifting and it was a relief to see where we were going.

The weather kept improving and the sunset was a real mind melter. UFOs came out in force. 

Next morning greeted us with more clear weather but having had our fill we bid adieu to the goats and our impeccable camp. After the bruising descent we enjoyed copious berries south of terror creek.

Gear Notes:
60m rope and light rack, crampons, ax or whippet

Approach Notes:
Goodell

Edited July 7 by JonParker

[geosean]

Nice trip, thanks for posting! If that had been you plan it would have been a fantastic outing, too bad about not getting you first choice though. It's good to know about the couloir bypass also. Someday I'll pass through that way.

On another note, do you know anything about the north butterss of the Rake? Beckey says 4th and low 5th. I'm intrigued but can't find any info except that the Fireys did it in '74.

[JonParker]

1 hour ago, geosean said:

do you know anything about the north butterss of the Rake?

I don’t, I’ve never looked into it. This is the best recent photo I have of the area 

[geosean]

I saw that photo, but I hate it, it makes the buttress look terrifyingly steep! Thanks, amazing shot.

[JonParker]

For contrast to the double moat encountered on 7/4/25, the 7/6/24 conditions are pictured in the TR linked here. No moats, easy downclimb.

 

Edited July 7 by JonParker

[Nick Sweeney]

Great effort and thanks for the beta! I was really stoked to try the N Buttress of Terror this season but those approach conditions are atrocious. Hmmm.

[bedellympian]

Reminds me of an August trip with similar plans and outcome a few years back! Yikes!

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Thanks for the report, fun stuff up there.  And terrifying chess as well.  Amazing how quickly it changes when you can see where you are going or not!

[Alisse]

Sounds like a great adventure! Thanks for the photo beta!

[aikidjoe]

It was a great trip! Thanks Jon for bringing me along! That's pretty shocking the difference in the snow from O-H col from last year. Jon and I had some theories as to why... but I would love to hear other people's thoughts. 

[JasonG]

Great effort and some really good beta for folks.  Thanks @JonParker!

I am a bit shocked by the approach as well, esp. this early.  I know @therunningdog and @sparverius approached via the Terror call some years back and said it wasn't that bad?  Maybe it would stay in longer?

[therunningdog]

Thanks for the TR! Once I read that the pencil was missing from the summit register on Degenhardt I raced back up there to replace the pencil!  Went up there last weekend and climbed Pyramid Degenhardt, Ottohorn and Frenzelspitz.  

 

Thanks for the stoke and the TR!

 

 

[therunningdog]

On 7/9/2025 at 7:01 PM, JasonG said:

Great effort and some really good beta for folks.  Thanks @JonParker!

I am a bit shocked by the approach as well, esp. this early.  I know @therunningdog and @sparverius approached via the Terror call some years back and said it wasn't that bad?  Maybe it would stay in longer?

Back in 2019 or so, yes, approaching the northwest side of Terror we did it from the cok between the Terror and the Rake formation. Lots of snow down climbing but pretty smooth sailing all the way to the base of the route.  That was early July.