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Rope solo anchor ethics question


ScottP

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Sloth_Man said:

I mean c'mon it's an old quarry and mostly a land of ugly destruction.

 

Your opinion Sloth, some would say it's the best crag in the state. If nailing is a last ditch effort, it seems the lack of a partner would not qualify as a reason to pound.

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Yos said:

Sloth_Man said:

I mean c'mon it's an old quarry and mostly a land of ugly destruction.

 

Your opinion Sloth, some would say it's the best crag in the state. If nailing is a last ditch effort, it seems the lack of a partner would not qualify as a reason to pound.

 

Um... I didn't say I lacked a partner.

Nor did I specify the lower town wall.

Though I do appreciate your opinions.

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I'm not arguing the quality of the crag.

 

I think it's a great place to climb, maybe the best crag in the state.

 

But to care whether there's a pin scar at the base of of a wall that is 60% missing, has an un-natural rubble filled swamp at the bottom, has raging trains and gunshots in the background, etc. seems anal to me and makes me want to go pound pins in along the whole base of the LTW.

 

Like I said get lathered up when peoples climbing style (free or aid) alters a climb for you, but otherwise this is just bolt war type B.S.

 

Wanna save the world from human impact go get spayed or neutered and stay on the couch.

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Not trying to rid the world of human impact or saying that we should all hug a boulder, but this loaded question assumes nailing is the only option. Give an real example at Index where this is the case.

 

If you can't figure out a way to secure a rope on the ground w/o pins, my guess is that you're gonna run into problems higher up.

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sloth

 

shouldnt like respect and shit be all like transcending and shit. like respect everything like you, yourself would like to be respected and shit?

 

i mean like maybe that respect starts with self and shit. so if we like um, start somewhere with dis-respect and shit, may it justify it in other arenas and with other poeple?

 

prolly so!

 

 

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oh yeah!

 

sloth

 

so because the ltw is a former quarry that justifies the lack of respect you should show it? hardly. if you base value of something on an event or action that is/was outta of your control, then you are not giving it the benefit of doubt. this goes for anything. do you ask future lovers of their past and then treat them based on that? i dont think so.

 

carry the torch man!

 

 

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Yos said:

Not trying to rid the world of human impact or saying that we should all hug a boulder, but this loaded question assumes nailing is the only option. Give an real example at Index where this is the case.

 

If you can't figure out a way to secure a rope on the ground w/o pins, my guess is that you're gonna run into problems higher up.

 

On the flipside, if you use half your rack of little nuts building a bomber anchor at the base you could run into problems if you need them higher up.

 

 

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Dru said:

if you run out of small nuts, you dont own enough of them, go buy more!!!! rolleyes.gif

 

thats whati was thinking. shouldnt adequete gear for leading the pitch and building two anchors go without saying?

 

and still no one commented on freeclimbs most excellent solution to the problem!!

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Alright Scott, if you really really want to rope-solo a climb that offers no clean protection within 50ft. of the base, that you can't freesolo to a bomber placement, that's away from any trees or stumps, that has no large rocks at the base to sling.. then go right ahead. Please post your TR, I interested to see if such a climb exists at Index. rolleyes.gif

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Yos said:

Alright Scott, if you really really want to rope-solo a climb that offers no clean protection within 50ft. of the base, that you can't freesolo to a bomber placement, that's away from any trees or stumps, that has no large rocks at the base to sling.. then go right ahead. Please post your TR, I interested to see if such a climb exists at Index. rolleyes.gif

 

It was a hypothetical situation (yes, I asked on the chance that I would run into such a scenario.) I only asked for opinions due to curiosity.

Trust me, if I can get clean gear I will. If I can't, I'll either go do something else or put in some iron. Nobody will be around if I do and nobody will ever see the effects of my "indiscretion".

 

Thanks to all of you for the input, be it helpful or self-righteous.

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Just fill up a pig with about 180lbs of rock and use that. don't pound! there is no need at Index. Sure its a little extra work but it will make you stronger. I've used this to belay me partners for photo ops and it works great.

 

dale

Edited by daler
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Jeez you guys get real!

 

Pounding pins withing 2 feet of the ground at a well used crag/former quarry with trails beat into the ground, bolts and ratty slings hanging off the walls.

 

ScottP you have my blessing to pound pins at the base of the wall at any well used crag that has beer cans and cliff bar wrappers strewn among the spider web of trails, as long as you remove them when you are done yelrotflmao.gif

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chucK said:

Jeez you guys get real!

 

Pounding pins withing 2 feet of the ground at a well used crag/former quarry with trails beat into the ground, bolts and ratty slings hanging off the walls.

 

ScottP you have my blessing to pound pins at the base of the wall at any well used crag that has beer cans and cliff bar wrappers strewn among the spider web of trails, as long as you remove them when you are done yelrotflmao.gif

 

Thanks Chuck. Like I said, if I do it, nobody will ever know.

I do like some of the ideas though: As erik said, freeclimbs girth hitch idea was a good one that I hadn't really considered. I liked his dirt and moss trick too. The anchors fifty feet out and the bag of rocks tricks get honorable mention for going that extra mile in championing the more puritanical side of the clean movement at Index. Perhaps they can point me to that climb TimL did with pins at foot level, so I won't leave any beat out placements on that one.

cantfocus.gif

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It could be many years from now, but there is always a possiblity that all of the stone in the Lower Town areas could again be quarried, regardless of its' current ownership or status. There is big money is quarried granite. If it is a state park, it could always be sold to help the finacial situation that the parks are in. I used to go to Skookumchuck Resoivoir near Olympia to crag when I was a teenager. The place has since been quarried.

-----------------------------

Iv'e never tried Dale's idea of a pig belay but it sound's good. I'll have to try it sometime.

 

 

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Jens said:

...There is big money is quarried granite. If it is a state park, it could always be sold to help the finacial situation that the parks are in...

 

I say if this happens we band up a mob and set fire to Tim Eyman's house. bigdrink.gif

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OMG I just got PM'ed that they are planning to quarry the Sweet Granite in Renton! We better go down there now and form a Human Shield to prevent this valuable climbers resource from being Destroyed!!!

 

King5 and Newstips can give us Valuable Tips on how to get the views of our Protest Movement Against Quarrying Renton Granite (PMAQRG for short!!) across forcefully in the media. I for one am prepared to solo in the nude Christian Griffiths style, when the cameras are turned my way. snaf.gif

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