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Building a Rack

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I've got a bare essentials rack of passive pro and slings. If you were to pare down your rack to just the most essential 3 or 4 cams, which would they be?

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Iain's choices are good, but you really should have one size smaller, the mythical "yellow alien" size. So either get 5 cams or replace the #2 Camalot with the yellow alien.

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i disagree with chuck. certainly the yellow alien is a choice piece. but stoppers will cover that end until you can buy more. go with the #2 gold camalot. the larger size will be much appreciated!

 

then again #2 gold camalots are sink hand jams, and sinker hand jams are equal to a belay!!

 

mushsmile.gif

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If I had to only have four cams, they'd all be camalots b/c they have the widest size range. I'd also supplement with tri-cams, b/c even though they're a bitch to place they fit in pockets and parralell sided cracks - where nuts won't. They're good for the mountains.

Also depends on what the rack's for. For just rock I probably wouldn't bring any pins, but if you're gunna be swinging ice tools you should include some angles and bugs. You can also hammer the shit out of a nut to fit in the funky spots.

 

And don't forget me frosted lucky charms, they're magically delicious!

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I would suggest that you consider purchasing several forged Friends. They are inexpensive, last forever and are quality. Certainly there are times where a flexible stem is preferred over a solid one but honestly I climbed for years with them and rarely found a cable stem essential. You can always add a sub sling to a forged Friend to improve horizontal placements.

 

Check this link out for Wired Bliss units on sale. I am not sure if they have built in cams stops or not. Back in the dark ages I think that I was wishing for solid cams stops more often than I wanted a flexible stem so that would be an important consideration to me.

 

Wired Bliss sale

 

PP bigdrink.gif

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iain said:

Camalots #0.5 #0.75, #1, #2

 

Word. You can cover the smaller stuff with nuts, the bigger stuff with hexes.

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Bill_Simpkins said:

#0.75,#1, #2,#3.5

 

Love that #0.5, grown fond of #0.75 although a bit close in size, #1, #2, haven't had use for 3.5, too big and heavy.

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Peter_Puget said:

I would suggest that you consider purchasing several forged Friends. They are inexpensive, last forever and are quality. Wired Bliss sale

 

PP bigdrink.gif

 

And the best part they are lighter than most cams for the longer hauls. Camalot #.75 =5 oz/ similar forged friend #1.75=3.5 oz doesn't seem like much but all the little oz's adds up.

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I am most often happy with OROUNGE COLOUR TCU and RED ALIENS then GOLD 4# DMM and also .75 SIZED CAMALOT. These are very fine cams of different brands to be climbing on. DMM is fine cam in larger size and very more lightweight than Camalot with same range.

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I have read a review of the camalots that said they may have a tendancy to pull out more than the Tech friends? Any truth to this? Since I am over 200 lbs, cam holding power means everything to me! I read that the cam angle of the BD is 14 degrees compared to 13.75 for most other brands incl WC. Is the difference of .25 degrees make a big difference? Since I am new to climbing I am trying to get all the info I can...thanks

Edited by Coopah

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Yeah, rumor is that everyone is gonna stop climbing on BD cams real soon. You should sell yours while you have the chance. What sizes do you have Mr. Cooper?

And where did you read this? (seriously this time)

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Hey N-NW good use of sarcasm! ( I have .2 - 4)

I read a review on Gearshark or Epinions. Which is why I posted the question here... To get more info / opinions. Maybe you have one you would like to share?

 

 

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Hmm, I dunno, only cam I've ever taken a leader fall on was a camalot. I'm still here...

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Coopah said:

I have read a review of the camalots that said they may have a tendancy to pull out more than the Tech friends? Any truth to this? Since I am over 200 lbs, cam holding power means everything to me! I read that the cam angle of the BD is 14 degrees compared to 13.75 for most other brands incl WC. Is the difference of .25 degrees make a big difference? Since I am new to climbing I am trying to get all the info I can...thanks

A larger cam angle gives you a larger useful range. A smaller cam angle produces a greater normal force on the rock and hence greater holding power. However, I don't think that a quarter of a degree will make any significant difference.

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I have a set of Clog cams. I've never taken a fall on one, however. Anyone have any experience with these? I'm sure lack of experience or knowledge won't stop anyone from commenting.

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camptricam.jpg

 

Hey, don't knock it. This piece has saved my butt twice! If you're climbing a wide crack or OW, they work just as well as a #4 camalot and are 1/3 the weight.

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Who's knocking tricams? I carry them on my rack. Sometimes they work where nothing else will. I like the smaller sizes. The weight of the larger ones approach that of the equivalent cams and take more time to place.

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