[TR] Glacier Peak - Frostbite Ridge 6/4/2023

[Greg Goad]

I was looking for trip reports for the earlier side of the season and didn't find many, so thought I'd share some info on our trip up Frostbite Ridge.

In August 2022 I hiked the glacier peak section of the PCT from Stevens Pass to Rainy pass.  The stretch down from Vista Ridge -- while beautiful -- has tens of very large blowdowns obstructing the steep switchbacks and Suiattle Valley floor.  The thought of climbing back up those switchbacks over and through the blowdowns was not appealing. Even though as of last week the Suiattle trail is officially reopened and the total distance to Frostibite ridge is less from the Suiattle TH, we opted to approach from the South on the PCT via the North Fork Sauk TH. Also, it seemed the Suiattle/Vista Ridgge approach would commit you to descending the Frostbite Ridge.  We didn't want to commit to this.  With the conditions we had, it would have been doable, but not nearly as straightforward as descending the standard route.

We brought 4 days food, 30m rope, trail shoes, mountain boots, crampons, one ax, 2 pickets and 2 screws (did not use screws)

We parked at North Fork Sauk TH, and left car at 330 pm on 6/2.  We slept at White pass camp.

On 6/3 we put on mountain boots and were on snow much of the way from White pass to Red pass and down. Snow level was around 5000ft.

We were concerned about the Kennedy Creek crossing because last Aug it was a bit dicey and I expected higher water.  However the water level was actually lower this time of year and the creek crossing was no problem. 

We crossed Glacier creek on the snowy PCT and bivy'd on snow where the west ridge of Kennedy peak meets the PCT.

Summit day we wore crampons the entire day - minus the quarter mile in the trees straight above camp. Started at 6am.  There was no running water this time of year/day so we had to melt snow. Two snow melting sessions added time to our summit day.

The route up Kennedy ridge and to the north of Kennedy peak and adjacent spire on Ptarmigan and Vista Glaciers was very straightforward and nicely covered with snow.  Once around Kennedy peak and on to Kennedy Glacier the rising traverse to the base of Frostbite Ridge was exposed to active rockfall from above on the ~40 degree slope.  We tried to move quick across here while watching above us, but nothing major came down.  We were at the base of the ridge around 1pm.

The Frostbite Ridge itself had a clear snow path up its entirety.  It was fairly sustained, but there were level areas and rocks to get a solid stance at. We started up a wide snowfinger that traveled to just to the right of a long rock/scree patch. 

A trip report we read somewhere on the internet described a rock tower on the right side of the upper ridge as "the rabbit's dick".  Nearing this feature we found this description to be quite accurate.  I'm not sure I've seen a more phallic rock feature in my years climbing.  You can't miss it.

Because of the ample snow cover on the ridge many lines were possible.  We stuck fairly close to the broad crest of the ridge.  Our line brought us close to the left side of the "rabbit's dick"  Below this we decided to rope up.  We'd lugged our gear this far, why not use it. 

There was a brief steep step alongside the 'dick' where we used the 2 pickets and a short running belay.  At the top of this it was a quick bit more ~40 degree snow to the top of the ridge.  The route we took brought us around the right side of the Rabbit Ears.  Not through them.  But we didn't realize this until we were on top looking back.

From here, the 3rd class loose rock down to the base of the next step is no big deal.  

The remaining two steep sections - the one up from the bottom of the 3rd class and the step to the summit were snow not ice.  We used pickets and running belays and nothing was ever that much steeper that anything we previously encountered on the ridge. 

We hit the summit just shy of 5pm after a long and leisurely snow melting and snacking session in the crater below the summit.

It seems that right now - late early season - is a great time to do the route with a solid snow covering however conditions are rapidly changing due to snowmelt.

It would have been a bummer if for some reason we had to retreat and retrace our steps on the PCT.  It was a relief to make the summit and head down the standard route.

Edited June 6, 2023 by Greg Goad
more clarity about early season

[JasonG]

Such a great route!  One of my favorites for sure.....I need to go back.  Thank you for the great TR and images!

For folks reading this TR in the future though, it is pretty much high summer in the Cascades right now, about a month ahead of normal.  So I wouldn't really consider it in early season conditions, more like normal early-mid July conditions.  Though maybe that is changing!

[Greg Goad]

Yes.  Good point.  Very late early season. But who knows how things will be in the years to come. 

[MyBrotherGodzilla]

Hi @Greg Goad, thanks for posting this report. Next weekend I plan on attempting from the south via the standard route. Since you descended that route, maybe you could shed some light on the snow and glacier conditions, particularly at the head of Suiattle and Cool Glaciers? The standard route ascends around Disappointment Peak in a counterclockwise fashion and it would appear this section has the most potential glacier exposure. I'm particularly interested in crevasse problems and/or any other conditions that warranted roping up. Of course any other details that you think are relevant would be welcome. Thanks!

-Ben

[nonbasketless]

LOooooove it! I've been waiting to see a TR going around Kennedy Peak.