Lambone Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 There is a good chance I will be moving to Ashland soon. I'll be looking for partners and the closest quality places to climb. Any suggestions or recomendations would be awsome... thanks, send me a PM if your looking for a partner this summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 click this! But seriously, how far is Castle Crags from Ashland? Seems like there's good stuff in Trinity Alps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Lambone - Check out the Climbing SW Oregon book. There is plenty cool stuff down there. I was at Castle Crags last year for the first time ... maybe 2-3h hours from Ashland?? There is awesome granite ... big spires ... grade III-IV walls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 (edited) - Fair selection of basalt face and crack climbs (sportish and traddish) at the Greensprings crag. Short, steep approach, routes from 5.6 to 5.12c with a good selection in the .10-.11 range. - Steep and vertical sport routes and TRs (and one or two cracks) from around 5.6 to 5.12c at Emigrant Lake (when the water is low, which should be the case this summer -- many of the good routes are under water at least part way when the lake is up. Don't let the rusty bolts worry you. Watch out for poison oak, trash, bees, and the occasional angry duck or dead fish. - "Elephant Rock" at Emigrant Lake is a ~25'-tall blob of low-quality, grainy sandstone. Once featuring some decent boulder problems and TRs, this already ho-hum mini-crag had a large piece pried off by vandals, and had one whole face completely peg-board drilled out by a local drill-happy moron. Hit it up if you're desperate for sandy sandstone slabs, grafitti, broken glass, mud, drilled pockets, etc. Usually above water when the main crag is submerged. - Fun, steepish bouldering on the Amanita (sp?) boulder at Pompadour Bluff near the Ashland Airport. Access is strictly covert bullet-dodging style, however once you're at the boulder in question, you're pretty much hidden from view. Roping up and tackling the taller cliffs of chossy sandstone nearby is not recommended. Watch out for poison oak, rattlesnakes, and goats. - Acid Castles bouldering is more or less in town on several good-sized granite blobs. Plenty of highballs with shitty landings onto sloped dirt or into manzanita and/or poison oak. Bring a spotter and a big pad - Rattlesnake is about an hour +/- from Ashland near lovely Shady Cove. Get the beta from somebody local. Mostly short climbs on somewhat chalky tuff, well-bolted routes of decent quality, many featuring blatant/unnecessary chipping (cue ranting about all chipping being unnecessary) and astonishingly stupid use of glue. Killer "cathedral" feature. Watch out for poison oak. And hillbillies, maybe. Probably plenty of potential on the outlying crags visible from the road, but check for access first. - The SOU climbing wall for when the weather's crappy or you need to do some bouldering in the evening. Sporadically open, sporadically monitored, sporadic fees, may not even exist any more. Mostly vertical with pumper epoxied-on railroad rocks traverse, small overhanging toprope section of dubious structural integrity, and bouldering cave area that was under construction for years last DFA was aware. Watch out for wrestlers and people who want you to pay for the wall. - Mt. Ashland features some short granite routes in the bowl area near the summit, as well as some highball and lowball boulder problems scattered about. Head up there if you're desperate or just insatiably curious. Also a ~house-sized boulder near the PCT trail crossing on the Mt. A access road, with a few good boulder problems and traverses - Pilot Rock features sorta alpine trad stuff on allegedly so-so rock, and some hiking. Ask a trad climber for beta. Edited February 24, 2003 by Dr_Flash_Amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Didn't know if Trinity Alps had any technical routes of note. It's a long way in to the peaks but glorious country. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 DFA named some good places... But I would check out the book Climbing sw oregon, its good for directionds, and whats close(most of the books climbing areas are closer to ashland then eugene... Its not really detailed on the specs of routes and what kinda rock they are on. Its not gonna tell ya what kinda gear your gonna need but is a great book for commonly climbed areas... I would try out alot of the back wood areas you see from the hyw... I haven't climb the ones down south but have found the out crops up 58, and 126 to be quite a blast... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggieD Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Orton's Climbing SW Oregon is the most comprehensive guide to the area. Rock quality is generally crappy subsequently it's mostly bolted. Rattlesnake is a sport crag with stiff routes, if you don't like the ethic, don't go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 BiggieD said: Rattlesnake is a sport crag with stiff routes, if you don't like the ethic, don't go. Alternately, do go, and make fun of the chipped holds and slippery glue. Lots of fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggieD Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 bobinc said: Didn't know if Trinity Alps had any technical routes of note. It's a long way in to the peaks but glorious country. There is enough to make you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 24, 2003 Author Share Posted February 24, 2003 Thanks for the info. I just found out about these plans to move this past week. I'm pretty sad to leave the WA cascades, but I'm trying to stay positive about that area. I'll probly start doing some other stuff like mt. biking and boating more, plus our family has horses down there. At least Yosemite is closer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 If your into wake boarding there are alot of wakeboarders down here in OR... Plus the Fishing is ten times better in OR then WA... I might chatch some shit for that last statement but its true... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 At least Yosemite is closer! Yeah, and so is Lee Vining! Better ice down there than Pac NW this year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Fejas, where you from, Eugene? If so, you are not out at Pub Club and need to be. Or maybe we already know each other and your avatar is hiding you? Wanna climb locally in the Spring? Have access to Coburg Caves on Private Property! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Lambone said: Thanks for the info. I just found out about these plans to move this past week. I'm pretty sad to leave the WA cascades, but I'm trying to stay positive about that area. I'll probly start doing some other stuff like mt. biking and boating more, plus our family has horses down there. At least Yosemite is closer! If you stop climbing because you live in Oregon (even So. Or.) you're crazy ... ok maybe the boating is kick ass. Don't believe all the negative hype. There's plenty of cool climbing ... maybe not N. Cascades quantity but enough to satfisy that need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 There is tons of killer mtn. biking around Ashland, and there's some fun class II-III boating to be had on the Klamath River about an hour away, or cruiser day trips on the Rogue also about an hour away (also permit-controlled "wilderness" boating on the lower Rogue, with mostly class II-III water, plus bears and jet-boats). And Smith is about 3.5 hours away, too, don't forget. Or you can slog around in the alpine on Mt. Thielsen or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Klamath turns into intense class V w/ opaque water and sharp rocks! wild ride Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Are you referring to Ishy-Pishy Falls? Or the Upper Klamath, i.e. Hell's Corner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 hell's corner, the dragon, caldera, all that. also the illinois is a wild run, green wall being the highlight of that killer float Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Mt. McCloughlin has some killer BC skiing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 iain said: hell's corner, the dragon, caldera, all that. also the illinois is a wild run, green wall being the highlight of that killer float KEWL AUTO SIG DUDE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 iain said: hell's corner, the dragon, caldera, all that. also the illinois is a wild run, green wall being the highlight of that killer float Alas, Dr. Flash Amazing has been down neither Hell's Corner nor the Illinois. Heard plenty of fun stories about Illinois trips where it snows and you get to put on a frozen wetsuit in the morning, then everyone flips at Green Wall. Or when it rains like hell and the sumbitch is pushing flood stage and everyone almost dies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted February 25, 2003 Share Posted February 25, 2003 ryland_moore said: Fejas, where you from, Eugene? If so, you are not out at Pub Club and need to be. Or maybe we already know each other and your avatar is hiding you? Wanna climb locally in the Spring? Have access to Coburg Caves on Private Property! Is there still pot growing around the caves... I have acksess to alot of the climbing over in them hills as well... but I don't think I've been to the "caves"... before... or have I... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted February 25, 2003 Share Posted February 25, 2003 I think you might know the crankin Mr. Fejas, ryland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 Hey Bone, I'm down at Crater Lake every summer these days, from mid-June until September. I'm always looking for climbing partners on weekends. Rattlesnake is about halfway between CL and Ashland, and I have yet to ski McLoughlin. It's not the North Cascades, but it is beautiful down there . Send me a PM sometime, or I'll look you up... -Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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