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North Face Triumph in Winter


Necronomicon

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I did the NE ridge last summer and it was an easy descent - combination of rappeling the moderate stuff and scrambling the easy stuff (there's nothing hard). It was exposed in places, usually at the rappels. And the easy stuff was broad ridge crests with almost zero exposure. Of course that was all on dry rock (and moss and shrubbery).

 

I've heard that the scramble route thoroughly sucks, but somebody else who's done it will have to provide details.

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  • 2 weeks later...
cracked said:

Damn, that looks steep. Is the face typically ice, or does snow still stick to 75 degree faces?

 

these pics were taken a few days after a coldish storm. You'd think that for it to stick at such a steep angle it has to be rimed or very cohesive snow (wind transported, wet then cold, etc). Could it be ice occasionally (long period of dry weather? warm wet storm then cold snap?).

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Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff.

 

Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think.

 

Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections.

 

Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh.

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Necronomicon said:

Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff.

 

Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think.

 

Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections.

 

Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh.

 

so what are you waiting for, twight as rope gun?

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Dru said:

Necronomicon said:

Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff.

 

Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think.

 

Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections.

 

Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh.

 

so what are you waiting for, twight as rope gun?

 

I'm leaving right now, look for my TR this afternoon.

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it's as steep as it looks in the profile photo (duh) which I think would pretty much rule out the north rib. Apart from the first steep pitch (aid-able, i think), the rib is sustained ~75 deg and slabby (~5,7). You'd need pretty special snow condition, which you are more likely to find in the gullies (avy compacted)?

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