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catbirdseat

Rainier Gib Ledges Feb. 22-23

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Col._Von_Spanker and I may attempt Gib Ledges this weekend if we judge the weather to be sufficiently stable this weekend. We could use a third on our rope. Sun through Wed are forecast to be partly sunny. PM me if you are interested. Let me know if you can get two weekdays off. We might have to wait until Mon or Tues for the snow conditions to stablize.

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We are definitely going to wait until Monday to go to camp Muir. That will allow the snowboarders to put in a nice boot path we can use and for the snow to settle on the route. Good weather is expected through Tuesday. There is room for one more. Go for it.

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We probably will try to arrive at Paradise as soon as the gate opens, which is around 9 am. I just talked to Gator and he did not have any recent information on the route as might be expected. So we'll just have to go up and find out for ourselves what the deal is. Are you in good condition?

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I like to think I'm in good condition.

 

As of now, the avi conditions don't bode well for Sunday according to the latest report. If the outlook for Monday is similar to that of Sunday, I won't be interested in being on the mountain. However, the weather outlook for early next week [sunday - Tuesday] certainly looks conducive to the settling of existing slab layers, in which case I'd definitely be interested.

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We'll just have to hope that things are safe at Pan Point on Monday and above Muir on Tuesday. My guess is yes. We may wish to dig some quick avy pits when we get up there.

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I am once again tied up with family stuff and can't make it. Next full weekend free is 4 weeks from now. madgo_ron.gif I will hope to get up to Muir at least before April. Good luck you guys.

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[quote

We'll just have to hope that things are safe at Pan Point on Monday and above Muir on Tuesday. My guess is yes. We may wish to dig some quick avy pits when we get up there.

Hello capitalist!

Harry Pi advise, if do not hear avalanches during night at Camp Muir or on you climb toward Gib ledge, then no worry.

Have fun be careful, don't look down when crossing ledge, one slip and you dead Peking duck.

Thank you for allowing Asian to post on American website.

 

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are you planning to climb the ledges in two days (monday, tuesday?) or are you planning to hang out up there a little longer if the weather isn't so nice? i was up to pan point today, didn't see any fractures, so hopefully if sunday is as nice as they say, things will settle out. also, it's been extremely windy up there the past few days (esp today). cori

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I'm not sure how much time catbirsdeat has, but I've only got 3 days (Monday-Wednesday). I'd be interested in waiting an extra day if conditions weren't just right on Monday night. Are you going to be on the mountain?

 

They're forecasting the winds to change direction [North] as high pressure builds Saturday evening. But will 2 days be enough to settle this huge accumulation of snow we're getting tonight? And will it solidify enough to not make it a wallow fest up to Muir?

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I hadn't given it much consideration, but we could plan on staying until Wednesday if Tuesday isn't good. I'd prefer not to, though. Muir Hut isn't exactly the Ritz Carlton, if you know what I mean. Weather reports suggest that the ridge may start to break down by Wednesday anyway.

 

My guess is that Harry Pi is a DFA doppleganger. He's funny.

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i don't think that getting to muir will be a wallow fest--the snow seemed pretty consolidated yesterday. and, after this weekend, i am certain that there will be a fabulous boot path. i may be interested in joining up with guys if you are still looking for another...

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Hope the wind dies down and the snow settles a bit. Pete A and I were digging some test pits late Saturday night and things were definately not settled! Saw a natural avi that released near Devil's Kitchen on Hood Sunday morning. Two sled necks were killed in Idaho in an avi over the weekend. Enjoy the climb and be careful up there!

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sketchfest said:

Did you guy's go? How were the conditions? Where's the TR?

They are climbing today (tuesday) so don't expect one until tonight or tomorrow. It was cold, windy and clear so they should have a good climb. It took work to get to Muir, and we were just going for the day. There was a team of five going today.

TTT bigdrink.gif

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We summitted at 2PM Feb 25th. The route is definitely in, and slopes seemed fairly stable. The snow conditions on the upper mountain are horrendous for travel, and we postholed (sometimes hip deep) all the way to the summit from Camp Muir. The ledges themselves were very soft (as was much of the snow encountered on the climb), and so was the upper Nisqually/Gibraltar chute. The chute was what we were most concerned with as far as avi danger. The chute had sastrugi lining both sides with loose, shallow sluff in the middle. We hugged the rock and cruised right up. We decided to descend the Ingraham Direct then we split off down through Cadaver Gap to save time.

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Good going. Somebody in your party must have been a real snowplow!! Training for Saint Elias?

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Congrats AT and Company! Nothing like getting a winter ascent of Rainier! Got any pics? Would love to see what you all had to go through to get up top.

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We didn't take many photos on the trip, but Oyvind took a couple nice ones in the upper chute and on the summit. I'll try and get some photos up soon.

 

MattP .. we all took turns breaking trail. It was a grunt fest.

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mattp said:

Good going. Somebody in your party must have been a real snowplow!! Training for Saint Elias?

The four of us all took turns breaking trail. It was a great team effort. I am certain that a party of two would not have made it to the top unless they were exceptionally strong.

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