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Rainier Gib Ledges Feb. 22-23


catbirdseat

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Wow .. you're right I had that backwards. All that postholing made my brain numb. So to answer the guy's question a couple posts back, yes we untied and switched leads about every 400 feet. It was slow going but we got there. I was wondering what Harry was talking about.

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Dustin, what we did was technically unsafe, at least the way we did it. We figured the risk of a crevasse fall in winter on the upper mountain was pretty minimal. If you wanted to move a middle man to the end and do it the safe way, this is how it might be done.

1) middle man pulls rope through prussick while approaching lead man (both are protected by 3rd climber who may place a boot axe belay)

2) lead man ties in just behind middle man

3) former lead man unties from end of rope

4) new lead (former middle) man ties into end of rope

5) new middle man slides prussick knot as new lead man moves out to extend rope.

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