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Message from Polish Bob


peacemaker

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CLIMBING IN THE PNW

 

“As this route and some of his other endeavors prove, he is one of the stronger climbers in the state and should be respected as such.” (Jason Martin)

I would like to see Jason's list of the strng climbers in the state. Who are they Jason? Who are you going to snub, by leaving off the list? What hasbeens and wannabes are you gonna put on? Is it only going to be people you know, or people you have never met but know the spray of? Will your list bear any resemblance to reality?

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toproped it w/ no falls but haven't been back to get...

 

I still have unfinished biz w/ Flatliner and Extended Illness...keep falling off the last move of both of them, so i quit going to si for all of last year...

 

I will start going back soon though...

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BigWallBigBallsRocky said:

CLIMBING IN THE PNW

 

“As this route and some of his other endeavors prove, he is one of the stronger climbers in the state and should be respected as such.” (Jason Martin)

I would like to see Jason's list of the strng climbers in the state. Who are they Jason? Who are you going to snub, by leaving off the list? What hasbeens and wannabes are you gonna put on? Is it only going to be people you know, or people you have never met but know the spray of? Will your list bear any resemblance to reality?

 

Is this the Jason that works/worked at Stone Gardens? confused.gif

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RuMR said:

toproped it w/ no falls but haven't been back to get...

 

I still have unfinished biz w/ Flatliner and Extended Illness...keep falling off the last move of both of them, so i quit going to si for all of last year...

 

I will start going back soon though...

 

Good job on Porn Star. Leading it ain't much different than tr.

 

I guess Extended Illness broke up high at the crux. What was a sloper is now a bit of a bucket?

 

Never been on Flatlander. Hear it's hard. Spring almost here. Few more weeks when the temp gets into the upper 50's....

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I think it's the dilution of the purity of the races. That, and our fat, lazy, comfortable American way of life. Maybe a war on our lands, death-camps and all, with massive human suffering and depravation, would make us harder climbers. Even the Brits climb like shit compared to the rest of Europe. The war was on the continent.

 

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Necronomicon said:

I think it's the dilution of the purity of the races. That, and our fat, lazy, comfortable American way of life. Maybe a war on our lands, death-camps and all, with massive human suffering and depravation, would make us harder climbers. Even the Brits climb like shit compared to the rest of Europe. The war was on the continent.

 

i guess "alpinist" needs to start profiling the iraqi high alitude climbing team!!!

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Necronomicon said:

I think it's the dilution of the purity of the races. That, and our fat, lazy, comfortable American way of life. Maybe a war on our lands, death-camps and all, with massive human suffering and depravation, would make us harder climbers. Even the Brits climb like shit compared to the rest of Europe. The war was on the continent.

 

i guess thats why fowler and ramsden won the piolet d'or this year then. snaf.gif

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Three things wrong w/the NW alpinist

 

1.This is one of the most comfortable places on Earth to live and not climb shit. Cush Cush Cush.

 

2.The weather isn't helpful for getting after it in the winter. There is a lot of desire being snowed and rained on.

3.Most of our routes a fucking hell and gone...ie, not visible from the road. Yes, there are few that are thank god.

 

I think if #2 at least were not such an issue, we'd get after it a lot more. Yeah, we had a little over a week of good weather for climbing...WOW! yellaf.gifColorado,California,and Alberta are laughing their asses off at our 1-2 good weeks. yellaf.gifyellaf.gifyellaf.gif

 

P-bob, thanks for stirring the pot. wave.gif Happy birthday, sorry the party didn't last super late.

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Dru said:

Necronomicon said:

I think it's the dilution of the purity of the races. That, and our fat, lazy, comfortable American way of life. Maybe a war on our lands, death-camps and all, with massive human suffering and depravation, would make us harder climbers. Even the Brits climb like shit compared to the rest of Europe. The war was on the continent.

 

i guess thats why fowler and ramsden won the piolet d'or this year then. snaf.gif

 

1991-The Slovenian party: Pretzelj-Sremfelj for the fantastic 3 000 m way on the south pillar of Kanchenjunga south summit, 8476m (Himalaya)

 

1992 -Michel Piola and his partner Vincent Sprungli( French ) for the extrem difficult ascent up to the Torre South del Paine east face in Patagonia (the name of the route is "Dans l'Oeil du Cyclone").

 

1993 -The youth high altitude expedition of French Alpine Club (midlle age-20 years) for the succesfull ascents in Pamir Alai region, the Karavshin valley.

 

1994 -Francois Marsigny ( France ) and Andy Parkin ( GB ) for the new route (ice and rock) via the Esperance Col (CerroTorre, Patagonia) and for the surviving on the long way down through the Hielo Continentale.

 

1995 -Andreas Orgler, Heli Neswabba and Arthur Wutsher ( Germany ) for numerous new route in the Ruth glacier area and especially the new route at South Face of Mt.Bradley (Ruth glacier, Alaska).

 

1996- Slovenian party Tomaz Humar and Vanja Furlan for the new route in pure alpine style at East Face of Ama Dablam, 6812 m, Nepal.

 

1997 -The Russian expedition from Ekaterinburg city for the first ascent up to West Face of Makalu (8841m, Nepal)

 

1998 -First ascent of Kangtega 6779 m NE face Himku valley, Nepal Himalaya. Erwan LE LANN, Sebastien MONTAZ-ROSSET, Herve QUALIZZA, Frank PLENIER, Sebastien SCHELL, Francois PALLANDRE and Francois MARSIGNY, 5c/A1 90° ( French )

 

1999 -Thalay Sagar. Himalaya area. North Face (VII,5.9,W15, 1500m)13-20 September 1997 Andrew Lindblade, Athol Whimp.( Australia )

 

2000 -Thomas Huber of Germany and Iwan Wolf of Switzerland . The two men were honored for their new route on Shivling (6,543m) in northern India last June. The new route, Shiva's Line, tackles an overhanging, 200-meter headwall at 6,200 meters, with difficulties up to A4.

 

2001 -Valery Babanov( Russia ). Solo first-ascent of the north face of Meru Central Peak (6310m), located in India's Garwhal. Height: 6310m. Length of a route: 2000m. Difficulty: ED (5 +/6a, A1/A2, M5, 75 °). Duration of ascent: 5 days on a wall (September 17-22).

Victor Kozlov's team, (the leader of the team S.Timofeev + 11)

 

2002 -Siguniang, China Mike Fowler & Paul Ramsden ( GB )

First ascent of the Nord Face central couloir of Siguniang, descent via the North Ridge.

Length and grade: 1500m, ED+ VII/AI6/M6.

Duration: 14-21 April 2002. 7 days. 6 nights on the face, 2 days descent.

 

Where are all the Canadians ??

 

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This is RURP:

 

Unclever and thoughtless fellow "Necro" wrote:

 

"I think it's the dilution of the purity of the races. That, and our fat, lazy, comfortable American way of life. Maybe a war on our lands, death-camps and all, with massive human suffering and depravation, would make us harder climbers. Even the Brits climb like shit compared to the rest of Europe. The war was on the continent."

 

RURP writes:

 

PISS OFF, "NECRO"!

Really funny, eh?

 

holocaust.jpg

 

holocaust.jpg

 

New editing of this post:

I've removed a gruesome picture of death camp victims and have replaced it with a URL for those who think it is amusing to joke about massive human suffering.

 

What's So Damn Funny? Read this and learn.

 

NEVER AGAIN!

 

RURP has spoken.

Edited by RURP
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Eeesh. My comments were in no way meant to suggest that the death-camps were a good thing. My point was that centuries of hardship, including WWII, has created a society that is much more harse than ours, possibly resulting in a "Hardman" attitude that we lack. We haven't died in the millions lately. This may also explain our cavalier attitude towards war.

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This is RURP:

 

Mr. Eric: With all due respect. I think those pictures are an appropriate reminder to a comfortable society that concentration camps and holocausts are not worthy of joking. It is a wake-up call for the smart-asses around here who make comments like that without thinking. It is neither funny nor comfortable, is it?

 

RURP has spoken.

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RURP said:

This is RURP:

 

Mr. Eric: With all due respect. I think those pictures are an appropriate reminder to a comfortable society that concentration camps and holocausts are not worthy of joking. It is a wake-up call for the smart-asses around here who make comments like that without thinking. It is neither funny nor comfortable, is it?

 

RURP has spoken.

 

Mr. RURP,

Please accept my sincerest apologies. My comments, though tongue-in-cheek, demonstrate a lack of empathy towards terrible historical events. In the future, I will refrain from making light of such tradegies.

 

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This is RURP:

 

"Necro" writes:

 

"Mr. RURP,

Please accept my sincerest apologies. My comments, though tongue-in-cheek, demonstrate a lack of empathy towards terrible historical events. In the future, I will refrain from making light of such tradegies."

 

O.K.

 

The point has been made.

 

RURP has spoken.

 

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I don't doubt that Bob is a good climber. However he fails to take a number of things into account.

 

Europe is dense. There are a lot of folks that climb in Europe and thus a bunch of good climbers.

 

Access is so fucking easy in Europe. Hop out of your car, onto the tram and your in the alpine zone. Think about this; how many tent manufacturers are European? Next to none cause you don't need to carry camping gear in the Alps.

 

Weather is a lot better for more of the year in Europe.

 

Even in North America these factors are against PNW climbers. The PNW climber can't just be a climber they also have to backpack and deal with long low altitude bullshit (bad roads brushwacking etc.) and bad weather for long periods. Despite of all these things there are some good PNW climbers.

 

Also Bob is missing another big point. If we want to read about climbers pushing the limits there is the AAJ and the mags. However if we want to talk about climbing, which all climbers like to do, then things like this bb are here.

 

I just don't understand why he cares so much. Go out and do your thing, and we'll hear about it eventually. I know some good climbers that rarely post here and don't get their panties all messed up cause people on this bb don't suck their dick.

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