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The coolest "I wanna" outside your given discipline


Matt_Anderson

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Matt,

Not to dis on your ambitions, 'cause I have the same one...

But remember, WI 4 was last considered "hard" back in the 80's when people were using hummingbirds with tube picks... Drury seems more like "a good day out."

I supose it's all relative.

Anyway, I wanna climb El Cap and jump off.

Twice smile.gif

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-17-2001).]

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I'm with ya, Matt. The one thing I want to do, but haven't is ice. No tools, or experienced partners to show the way.

Four regular rock and alpine partners, and not one of them has climbed ice.

I figure this year, I'm just going to jump into it and try not to kill myself.

If anyone is looking for belay slave for ice climbing, you know where to find me.

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Man, you're right about ice-climbing being easy, FOR THE MOST PART. Now don't get all ruffled, all you ice-climbers, but you basically always have something to hold on to, and YOU decide where to go, NOT like how bolts seem to always tell you where to go.

I don't know though. Over-all, I generally prefer sport-routes, yet you can get me on some trad lines once in a while.

By the way, no one really knows my gender. Plus, what would it matter anyways?

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I'm on the ice bandwagon too. It's scary shit, but fun (so far). I don't even want to think about setting pre-tensioned screws and all that expert shit, but I would like to get out there and do more of it.

My dream is the North Face of Robson. Why? Because it looks harder than shit with all the exertion to get there, plus that mountain looks pretty awesome. Will it ever happen? I think I'd have to get in better shape, but I could pull it off with what I know now. Of course, this is all dependent upon the route actually coming in to shape. I'd also like to check out that Skyladder, or Skywalker...something like that.

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Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

Man, you're right about ice-climbing being easy, FOR THE MOST PART. Now don't get all ruffled, all you ice-climbers, but you basically always have something to hold on to, and YOU decide where to go, NOT like how bolts seem to always tell you where to go.

You could'nt be more wrong!

Reading the ice is what makes ice climbing HARDER than sport climbing. 90% of the time (on harder WI routes) the ice determines where you go, and you just hold on tight and enjoy the ride.

You are comparing apples to oranges. Ice climbing is alot more like aid climbing than sport climbing.

The quality of placements on hard Ice and hard Aid depends on the condition of the rock, or ice. It takes more brain than body power to get up it. Cold fingers + pumped biceps + bad ice = OOOHHH SHIITTT. But both hard ice and Aid can be very strenuous.

 

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lambone - you can be fat and weak and still be a hard aid climber (although living on a wall strips the fat pretty quick all the OE 800 and whatnot puts it back on pretty quick when you get back to the Deli) but you gotta be pretty strong AND have good technique for hard ice.

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I guess my "discipline" would be free trad routes, so my dreams outside that are typically things involving a mix of all kinds of climbing. Stuff in the Tetons, Patagonia, Trangos, Baffin, Alaska etc where you need to climb hard rock and aid pitches, snow, and water ice all on the same route. That Russo-American ascent of Changabang back in '99 (I think it was Buhler with four Russians) comes to mind as having those requirements.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

lambone - you can be fat and weak and still be a hard aid climber

But Dru, who would you rather have hanging off that string of #0 heads...87lb Beth Rodden, or 220lb John Long. Besides, who'd look better after five days on the wall? Maybe the best case would be 3.6lb Teddy Ruxpin (how are his aid skills anyway Beck, I know you said he really knows how to drive the iron)

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Is this thread about the difficulty of ice climbing or about Matt's original question -- what do we dream of climbing?

I personally dream of alpine climbing in Pakistan. Since so much of the lower rock/peak formations are unclimbed I don't have any particular objective in mind. I've got a lot to learn before it can become a reality. Not to mention that it's not a very safe place to be these days.

Still dream about it though.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

lambone - you can be fat and weak and still be a hard aid climber (although living on a wall strips the fat pretty quick all the OE 800 and whatnot puts it back on pretty quick when you get back to the Deli) but you gotta be pretty strong AND have good technique for hard ice.

You are right to an extent, but I'd put it this way...

You can be fat and weak and still be a SLOW aid climber.

It takes some serious fitness to aid FAST on STEEP terrian.

Once again, I want to Jam a Desert Crack!

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Allright sexy, get your own topic about bouldering.

And everyone else, except lambone (although his post didn't tell us a damn thing about why he wants to) and Strickland, missed the point.

Dru - "I want to ski" doesn't do it. Isn't there some bad ass coloir you want to descend? Or some 15 billion mile long powder snow field that seems like it would be a blast to spend the day schussing down? What makes it seem so cool?

Pencil Pusher - "I want to do a route similar to the one's I'm doing now, but harder and longer and farther away" also doesn't do it. (although, I might be wrong about this one. Maybe you just started single pitch ice climbing and primarily do other stuff . . .)

Mike Adam "Your dream is harder than you think, ice climbing is actually difficult - maybe even feels like 5.11, but if you want you can learn to climb 5.11 ice with me in Lillooet sp?" A generous offer, but for cryin' out loud, No shit I think it might actually be hard and require some experience, that's why I haven't done it yet. Half of what might make the responses interesting is hearing the mistaken impressions that inspire someone who's never or rarely done your own disipline wnat to do one of its particularly inspiring or difficult lines.

Lambone - is jumping off just a lazyiness thing (also one of my ambitions and that is its motivation) or is there something else you're hoping for from it?

matt

 

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I think Matt has a very interesting post, let's let go of the ice climbing bit. From my own experiences with ice, it is like rock. Goes from easy as hell to what the fuck am i doing putting a screw in this slush shit.

I really want to get into backcounty boarding a bit more and increase my knowledge of avalanche safety, crevasse rescue, etc. I love climbing, hiking, biking, and the outdoors to begin with. but there is a certain pleasure to be found by luggin your ass up a big mountain and having the pleasure of cruising down it in style.

lots of you already have the mountain smarts to do so. that is what i need and want to work to be where i want to be

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Quote by Matt Anderson:

"Dru - "I want to ski" doesn't do it."

WHAT is wrong with skiing? Skiing CAN be way harder than anything listed on this thread so far....

Wouldn't you agree that skiing down that couloir would be really hard?

I don't know, but first time I ever went skiing, I broke a rib. I've never broken anything while climbing....

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Matt,

Is it really important for me to explain why I want to go climb Utah cracks, or go to Alaska... I think everyone here can use their imagination.

Why do I want to jump off El Cap, thats a good question. Here are some reasons (not in any particular order):

1. To face my biggest fear- Falling off.

2. Cause the decsent SUCKS ASS!

3. To freak out the tourists in the Meadow.

4. I want the perfect answer to the question: Why would you wan't to climb that thing? Answer: So I could jump off? Why else would you climb it?

grin.gif Nice topic

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Great topic. The beautiful thing about climbing is that it is very possible to reach your dreams and ambitions in as many different disciplines as you want. I kinda look at my ambitions in stages of the places I want to get to. I have one season under my belt with ice climbing so this coming season I want to climb tons of ice so I'll have the expereince and confidence to climb alpine ice routes in Alaska and Canada in the best style. If you need a partner for ice this year give me a hollar.

I love rock climbing, aid, gear, sport, alpine, walls you name it, its all good. I want to climb 5.12 gear so I can do routes like the Rostrum, Astroman and the Nose, preferably in a long day in good style. I think its all very attainable with ambition and an open mind.

 

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quote:

Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

Lambone says:

"Ice climbing is alot more like aid climbing than sport climbing."

Exactly! That's why it's easier! Way easier! That was my point!

And who knows about the access up at Mountain Home? (Is that ok to ask on this thread?)

 

You missed my point, You can't compare ice climbing and sport climbing. They are way to different. Ice climbing and aid climbing force you to think, sport climbing forces you to grunt. Is thinking easier than grunting? I guess it depends...

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I have only ever been skiing twice, once on tele gear and once on x country. My tele experience was a total failure i got dragged up the bunny hill on my stomach trying to use the rope tow! Oh no (shame).

Just going for a tour in some knee deep powder and going down a hill with a pack on without wiping out will be enough for me to feel ive accomplished something. must be those ski films at the Best of the Banff working their twisted message. also So i can hang out with some friends all year long instead of just in the summer.

I guess if you want a specific objective I would like to ski the east face of silvertip that I did the FA of a few years ago. 1000 feet of 50 degree snow to a bench glacier to another 3000 feet of 30 degree snow to a long ski out through the trees. i cant figure why johnny foon or jia havent bagged it already, they beat me and touche to plinth by 5 MONTHS!!!

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-17-2001).]

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How bout this question?

What slows you guys down from doing all this.

Jobs, families, money, injuries, laziness?

I'm 23 and moving to Steamboat next month in helping to follow my dreams. As much as I look forward to settling down, I love not having wife and kids at this point so I can do these things with relatively little responsibilty.

I'm ready to be away from the computer and in the mountains

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Lambone,

If you think more during and before a sport route, you will do less grunting.

If you do less grunting, you will climb harder grades.

So sport climbing can involve thinking. Not to make this an issue, but in all climbing (bouldering, sport, trad, ice, havent done aid), it is the great ability to have that focus and clarity that brings me back to do it over and over.

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