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dberdinka

[TR] Joffre Creek - Mighty Mouse 07/25/2022

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Posted (edited)

Trip: Joffre Creek - Mighty Mouse

Trip Date: 07/25/2022

Trip Report:

 

A brief TR for old times sake.  Mighty Mouse fully lives up to the hype.  The loveliest splitters you’ll ever climb, in a scenic alpine setting with a straightforward approach.

 

the logging road, while getting a bit grown in, is in great shape and mercifully short.  The approach trail, though frequently obscured by lush undergrowth, is a wonder.  Could use some brushing and flagging but in amazing good shape.  Approximately 2 hrs car to base at middle aged pace.

the climb is stout.  The first pitch is in your face and felt as challenging as the remainder of the climb.  10d/11a pitches all had short, hard cruxes with amazing crack climbing throughout.  Excellent ledges for almost every belay with bolted rap anchors.  The hand crack eats #2/#3 Camalots.  Never climbed a better granite splitter.

bring very small rps.  We bailed off pitch 8 when partner took a fall and ripped gear.  11 hrs car-to-car.  Something to go back for.

was 98 degrees in Pemberton and tolerable on the climb in the sun thanks to a breeze.  Shade after ~ 2 pm.

Gear Notes:
Very Small nuts and micro cams. Double rack with at least 3 #3s.

Approach Notes:
See Mtn project. Would be hard to follow in dark and you’ll get soaked in the am if temps hit the dew point.

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Edited by dberdinka
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Looks stellar! Been on my list for a while... Thanks for the additional motivation

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Damn.   And here I was thinking that you were sliding into the mediocrity of middle age.  That looks STOUT for the dad crowd!!

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