[TR] Mount Stuart - Direct North Ridge 07/21/2022

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Trip: Mount Stuart - Direct North Ridge

Trip Date: 07/21/2022

Trip Report:

Mostly condition report for Sherpa Glacier descent. Had an enjoyable trip up the North Ridge, pitching out the 5 usual pitches and mixing soloing and simuling for the rest. We camped at 5400ft in Mountaineers Creek, started from camp at 6:30am, and reached the summit by 4:30pm. Exited via the Sherpa Glacier, which MAYBE has one more week left of desirable use. Snow was softer higher up and decently firm deep in the gully. Front pointed a majority of the descent to the bergschrund. Snow was continuous except for one thin spot maybe 250 feet above the schrund, and required a sketchy “drop”. Schrund was navigable skiers right but will soon be fully open all across, quite big this year. We descended rock ledges for a while due to so much water running under the lower snow gully, which seemed sketchy. Ended with about 700ft of boot skiing. Big spring snow season finally getting into normal summer conditions it seems.

Gear Notes:
Alpine rack, crampons, ice axe

Approach Notes:
From the north. Mountaineers Creek trail well marked these days.