[TR] Mount Hood - Elliot Headwall. Wallace - Olson 02/13/2022

[Alex789]

Trip: Mount Hood - Elliot Headwall. Wallace - Olson

Trip Date: 02/13/2022

Trip Report:

http://www.gorobets.com/TRs/Hood_Elliot_Headwall_2022_02_13.html

Gear Notes:

• 2 ropes 60 m x 8.2 mm
• A pair of ice tools each
• A single rack of cams from 0.2” to 3”. Used 2.
• A set of nuts. Not used.
• 4 pitons. Not used.
• BD Spectra. Not used.
• 9 ice screws. Used.
• 2 pickets. Used.

Approach Notes:

No flotation used.

[Steve McGee]

That's awesome! Looks like great conditions. Photos on your web page make it look much more exciting than what I saw on Facebook.

[Ed-the-Ted]

I’m uncertain if this variation of the headwall has a name but the route photo shows exiting the headwall to climbers left in a wide open chute closer to the summit than the wallace-Olson chimney. The wallace-Olson exit is in the center of the final cliffs through a narrow weakness and when dry or boney truly feels like a chimney. There are some nice photos in prior TR’s; and I think there is a photo with the final chimney pitch in the background in my partner’s CC TR a few days later on 2/18/22. And here are a few more photos I have collected from friends over the years showing it in various different conditions. In the overview photo I think the wallace Olson is approximately at the green arrow. Yellow arrow I think marks the route in this TR.

[Ed-the-Ted]

BTW a great TR. I’ve always wanted to take your route as it leads so directly to the summit and obviously the longest line on the HW with the most ice. Well done!