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[TR] Mount Hood - Elliot Headwall. Wallace - Olson 02/13/2022


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Trip: Mount Hood - Elliot Headwall. Wallace - Olson

Trip Date: 02/13/2022

Trip Report:


Gear Notes:
  • 2 ropes 60 m x 8.2 mm
  • A pair of ice tools each
  • A single rack of cams from 0.2” to 3”. Used 2.
  • A set of nuts. Not used.
  • 4 pitons. Not used.
  • BD Spectra. Not used.
  • 9 ice screws. Used.
  • 2 pickets. Used.

Approach Notes:

No flotation used.

  • Snaffled 1
  • Rawk on! 2
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  • 11 months later...

I’m uncertain if this variation of the headwall has a name but the route photo shows exiting the headwall to climbers left in a wide open chute closer to the summit than the wallace-Olson chimney. The wallace-Olson exit is in the center of the final cliffs through a narrow weakness and when dry or boney truly feels like a chimney. There are some nice photos in prior TR’s; and I think there is a photo with the final chimney pitch in the background in my partner’s CC TR a few days later on 2/18/22. And here are a few more photos I have collected from friends over the years showing it in various different conditions. In the overview photo I think the wallace Olson is approximately at the green arrow. Yellow arrow I think marks the route in this TR.





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