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adventure43

[TR] Mt Hood - Reid Glacial Headwall 01/28/2022

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Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Glacial Headwall

Trip Date: 01/28/2022

Trip Report:

 

Blown away at the coolness of the left variation of Reid Headwall, Mullee 8a. Bergschrund at the bottom of the glacier was easy to get over. I tried to skirt the first garbage chute at the bottom by staying right of the big runnel but had to down climb back and go directly up it. Ice fall wasn't bad and winds on route were low. Daggered most of the way though there were at least a couple of steep ice ramps that necessitated swinging. There was 10 - 15 feet of unconsolidated deep snow on the leftward traverse around 10200 before heading into more rock towers. The last pinch point required several minutes of rime removal to make it wide enough to get through. Probably spent over 1/2 an hour gawking and taking pictures of the towers and surrounding ridges. For me, the route is definitely worth a repeat in the future.

 

Route.png.89024dbf320938560bde4976494b05e8.png20220128_063905.jpg.48440485fc4f8973210b923214c0a937.jpg20220128_072809.jpg.c83191cc16373a831dfd9cb48c74881d.jpg20220128_072918.jpg.feaf84fde617144be593c7e54c83c9cb.jpg20220128_074840.jpg.567372ffa35465ebc1a8d41fef86ceaf.jpg20220128_075040.jpg.99469bcdd2992b417b25f8542414057c.jpg20220128_075055.jpg.b8272f30172dddbe5b650bd961c820a0.jpg20220128_075638.jpg.b4db4fca1fe5c0a87ebcf890e1378667.jpg20220128_075653.jpg.5705f529354dc95f5b4c8435f336c4d1.jpg20220128_080546.jpg.2623f2151d67c59dd4e2c9cea2fb41d2.jpg20220128_081648.jpg.20cceebef2f632b0a72fa677b68a4e5f.jpg20220128_081655.jpg.5e4e86e520dacfcdbfc76caef28c41bc.jpg20220128_082309.jpg.6f9eb6aa2c712a2d7848736ca48491f4.jpg20220128_084213.jpg.4e6799ae05df11b64c4f9f86a9b7ec85.jpg20220128_085957(0).jpg.d3b3caa403f6584ae1176a6bd02ab588.jpg20220128_090643.jpg.1784abed866ce4990ef685ac23f4d6c3.jpg20220128_091014.jpg.354096ddb7e9847b34d63677e7ff0113.jpg20220128_093041.jpg.aaaaa378872e65334cc6c31dd68b6383.jpg20220128_094554.jpg.e615d9730c7edfbb6cb3b2bea9cc627f.jpg20220128_095422.jpg.4377dcbd398023726e85559d801cf058.jpg20220128_101507.jpg.48df02bedca48fe03098d4e26a37bfed.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:
2 tools, helmet, crampons

Approach Notes:
Icy above Palmer

Edited by adventure43
11200 -> 10200 for the unconsolidated snow
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Great photos! Of the half-dozen or so routes that I've done on Hood, RGH ranks as my favorite!

Edited by DPS

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its just quality "me" time!  congrats, looks like a great out there!

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Nice. I totally agree about the quality of the route. So many weird rime formations to wander through, and so much fun and low-stress ice to play on. (Just enough heads-up “work” on the snicey traverses to make the rime tower maze all the more chill.)
It is a lovely route to go off by yourself and clear your head. 

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