Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Alpineclmbr

September Glacier Routes

Recommended Posts

Hello all!

My buddy and I have crevasse rescue skills and feel comfortable on most snow/ice terrain (up until actual sustained ice climbing). We are wanting to do a route on one of the major peaks (Adams, Shasta, Hood, Baker, Rainier) during mid September, anybody have route suggestions? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some other people may have something different to say, but I would stay off of those peaks in September. The rock is bad and will be exposed, and the crevasses will be open.

If you will be on a trip and don't want to climb something more technical, then go do a 3rd/4th class ridge scramble in the N Cascades. If you want to climb a glacier route plan a trip for May/June.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with @bedellympian- zero routes on the volcanoes are a good idea in mid-September, esp. this year.  Most glaciated routes, even on lower peaks, won't be great either. 

That said, Eldorado and the Sulphide on Shuksan might fit the glaciated bill for you (and be in not dangerous shape).  Or scramble something like Mt. Stuart for the big mountain feel?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

coleman deming route on baker may be ok to try.  evidently the most schrund/crevasse that formed wall to wall and prevented all access last year has not formed.   hustle past the hanging fire on colfax pk.  expect much of winter snow to be gone and be walking on bare glacier ice, especially on the deming part (roman wall) of the route.

or dirty trail climb up st helens

plus what Jason said.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

add that is you are going bare glacier ice climbing, do not assume that self arrest is an option.   if it is steeep enough that a slip will result in sliding, do running belays.  that means carrying several ice screws.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/23/2021 at 11:24 AM, Flyboys-on-InfiniteBliss said:

Can confirm what JasonG stated just did shucksan via sulfide and Stewart via West ridge, conditions were great for both!

Both are late season classics!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×