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[TR] Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 07/18/2021


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Trip: Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys

Trip Date: 07/18/2021

Trip Report:

This weekend I roped up with my wife for the first time in several years on an outstandingly beautiful climb.  I immediately understood why Becky included Fisher Chimneys in his 100 favorite climbs of North America.  We lucked out in every way: fantastic weather that wasn’t too hot or cold, easy route finding up the chimneys, cruiser snow and glacier conditions, and only a few other parties on the summit pyramid scramble.  And most importantly, excellent two day child care on the home front!

We bivied at the truck Friday night and started hiking Saturday morning.  The hike to the chimneys was straight forward, as were the chimneys.  We bivied below Winnies Slide, which doesn’t have running water but is a short 10 minute jaunt up to the upper bivies where there is running water.  Winnies slide is all steep snow right now.

Sunday we were moving at first light.  The Upper Curtis is mostly smooth sailing with just a bit of steep snow/ice at the start and some steep snow at the exit up to the Sulphide Glacier.  We scrambled up the central gully on the pyramid, putting the rope in my pack and not taking it out until a couple rappels on the way down.  Views were spectacular.  It took us about 7 hours round trip from our bivy.  We had a nice nap back at camp and relaxed for a bit before packing up and heading out.  The chimneys took a bit longer going down than they did coming up.  We were tired by that point and did a few rappels and were pretty cautious with the exposure in the chimneys.  Back at the truck ~8:00 and at home in bed by midnight.

Hiking to Lake Ann

Spectacular views 24-7


Starting the first scramble section:IMG_2229.thumb.JPG.1b2f627f4a551ef34a431097bde09bdc.JPG

View of the chimneys.  The route finding is fairly obvious once you start up.IMG_2236.thumb.JPG.8d93bf1d79ede1b5a2dab0c04259e3c4.JPG

Relaxing in camp below Winnies SlideIMG_2257.thumb.JPG.23da940858fa0634fa6a141d965846b6.JPG

Early morning on the Upper Curtis GlacierIMG_2269.thumb.JPG.ea55a5c02c6600c8a91a0863160827ec.JPGIMG_2275.thumb.JPG.ea1fe2f4efde2760484434327f9a8eab.JPGIMG_2278.thumb.JPG.1a6510a308196da939af052126149262.JPGIMG_2283.thumb.JPG.632f0e027e3b8b279a2bc4bb4b19108f.JPG

View of the summit pyramid


Katie leading up the central gulleyIMG_2299.thumb.JPG.4d9081b39b018edd8672a08e7c976458.JPG

All smiles on top!


Parting shot on the drive out



Post Script:
Unbeknownst to me, my grandmother passed away gracefully at the age of 101 on Saturday night.  Sometime around her passing I woke up to look outside and check the weather.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen as many stars.  I’m not an especially religious person, but in retrospect it seems as though a greater being was calling me out to see her ascend to heaven.  RIP Margaret Colson Devot.



Gear Notes:
Brought a second tool for the steep snow and potential ice but it wasn't necessary

Approach Notes:
Road closed at Heather Meadows added ~1 mile to the approach
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Fisher Chimneys was one of my first alpine climbs and I remember it fondly; especially the bear we surprised in the chimneys who rocketed upwards and out of sight at a speed that was extremely impressive.  Congratulations on getting out with your wife; and condolences on the passing of your grandmother. 

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