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bedellympian

[TR] Middle Sister - Emde/Ablao 03/06/2021

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Trip: Middle Sister - Emde/Ablao

Trip Date: 03/06/2021

Trip Report:

Probable second ascent of the Emde/Ablao with Adrien Costa. This is the ice smears and columns to the L of the Direct NE Face route from Oregon High. Perhaps some other people know of someone who has climbed it? Steep snow above the schrund (currently covered) leads to a varied and engaging 60m pitch (difficult to protect) with a couple overhanging bulges. Above this we traversed L on snow to join the E Rib. AI4/4+ R/X seems about right. 

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Me approaching the route, NE Face Direct's couloir is to the R. Photos of me by Adrien (obvs).

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Me starting the crux.

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Approaching the crux bulge.

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Adrien topping out the crux pitch.

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Adrien leading easier terrain above between spindrift pulses.

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Coming up the E rib.

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Adrien approaching the summit.

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The thing you do when you top out.

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North Sister with sun setting. Still got a few miles back to the car. 

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Road conditions beta.

 

Gear Notes:
screws, cams, pins, nuts

Approach Notes:
long skin from before Pole Creek TH (17 miles and 4k' round trip from where we got the truck stuck)

 

Edited by bedellympian
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  • Rawk on! 5

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