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[TR] Middle Sister - Emde/Ablao 03/06/2021

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Posted (edited)

Trip: Middle Sister - Emde/Ablao

Trip Date: 03/06/2021

Trip Report:

Probable second ascent of the Emde/Ablao with Adrien Costa. This is the ice smears and columns to the L of the Direct NE Face route from Oregon High. Perhaps some other people know of someone who has climbed it? Steep snow above the schrund (currently covered) leads to a varied and engaging 60m pitch (difficult to protect) with a couple overhanging bulges. Above this we traversed L on snow to join the E Rib. AI4/4+ R/X seems about right. 


Me approaching the route, NE Face Direct's couloir is to the R. Photos of me by Adrien (obvs).


Me starting the crux.


Approaching the crux bulge.


Adrien topping out the crux pitch.


Adrien leading easier terrain above between spindrift pulses.


Coming up the E rib.


Adrien approaching the summit.


The thing you do when you top out.


North Sister with sun setting. Still got a few miles back to the car. 


Road conditions beta.


Gear Notes:
screws, cams, pins, nuts

Approach Notes:
long skin from before Pole Creek TH (17 miles and 4k' round trip from where we got the truck stuck)


Edited by bedellympian
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