Jump to content

[TR] Middle Sister - Emde/Ablao 03/06/2021


bedellympian
 Share

Recommended Posts

Trip: Middle Sister - Emde/Ablao

Trip Date: 03/06/2021

Trip Report:

Probable second ascent of the Emde/Ablao with Adrien Costa. This is the ice smears and columns to the L of the Direct NE Face route from Oregon High. Perhaps some other people know of someone who has climbed it? Steep snow above the schrund (currently covered) leads to a varied and engaging 60m pitch (difficult to protect) with a couple overhanging bulges. Above this we traversed L on snow to join the E Rib. AI4/4+ R/X seems about right. 

604549a2450bc_IMG_19012.thumb.jpg.5a77e6dac2f9467a5a69839f4818cdd0.jpg

Me approaching the route, NE Face Direct's couloir is to the R. Photos of me by Adrien (obvs).

IMG_2316.thumb.jpg.f36e063b1b0ac8351cc6fc2a5514166d.jpg

Me starting the crux.

IMG_2321.thumb.jpg.a27cc9bc49c86b1002b4b43770310393.jpg

Approaching the crux bulge.

IMG_2287.thumb.jpg.bf3a90ba0b408409c2da5c3c01d4fe6f.jpg

Adrien topping out the crux pitch.

IMG_2289.thumb.jpg.b26254fe1e7b243683e473671bddf7fb.jpg

Adrien leading easier terrain above between spindrift pulses.

IMG_2292.thumb.jpg.f26ada3e1f3f5ad4ab5b46be2748fb4a.jpg

Coming up the E rib.

IMG_2301.thumb.jpg.bd61aef30ad063cf28ac54ff13099df5.jpg

Adrien approaching the summit.

IMG_2302.thumb.jpg.e97f94ddc68e4f51780971e048887f55.jpg

The thing you do when you top out.

IMG_2311.thumb.jpg.e6248962b39e5e683c48fe0c143e72f8.jpg

North Sister with sun setting. Still got a few miles back to the car. 

IMG_2314.thumb.jpg.0416da3c11d458099b9434363dc3d6b9.jpg

Road conditions beta.

 

Gear Notes:
screws, cams, pins, nuts

Approach Notes:
long skin from before Pole Creek TH (17 miles and 4k' round trip from where we got the truck stuck)

 

Edited by bedellympian
  • Like 2
  • Rawk on! 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...