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New sport climbing guidebook (kickstarter campaign)


Bruce MacLachlan

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  • 2 weeks later...
7 hours ago, Rad said:

Similar themes in threads on FB: access issues ignored, developers ignored, copyright issues ignored, safety issues ignored...

copyright issues?  like copying verbage from other guidebooks?

and the access issues?  Shouldn't the access should have been sorted out before any route development happens?

I suppose I could go on that thread but it sounds depressing.

 

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8 hours ago, genepires said:

copyright issues?  like copying verbage from other guidebooks?

and the access issues?  Shouldn't the access should have been sorted out before any route development happens?

I suppose I could go on that thread but it sounds depressing.

 

It's all out there if you want to read it. Better to go slay powder while we have it...

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  • 1 month later...

Okay, so the book arrived and it looks splendid (I've also been starting a new job which required a lot of onboarding), and now it's off to those who backed it and seeing as the facebook groups are having fun deleting things, and because the dogpiling was getting old and wasn't going anywhere, here we go with an update.

I took the advice and Elk and Tectonic have no GPS or directions and are listed as under development and to be avoided until such time as the route fellows are done.

Funcadia is listed as being small and so move on if there's a bunch of cars (as there have been when we've come down from it - we're early birds), also because of the spring, I explained why you should pack it in and out.

Esmeralda, some are just listed as warnings because they are chossy and runout, the one good one gives people plenty of advice about what to expect from this gnarly fellow.

Dichotomy. The guy invited me to it online. If it's a death trap, why send people there? If he wants to remove all the bolts in a fit of pique, well that seems excessive, as does referring to it's inclusion as 'a dark day for washington climbing' but that's up to him, he made it, he can demolish it.

And Fossil lists the access issues. It's in earlier Falcon guides, it's online, and it's covered because if things change, the beta is good to go.

Jayhawk is on youtube, it's been around for years, and every time we go it's full of people, it's not even remotely secret. The Tieton book has been out for about a decade and still Vantage is packed and Tieton is only ever really crowded at Lava Point, so fears of crowds seem a little baseless. Especially considering this book is online only and a limited run.

Any areas that are crumbly or hazardous, I've pointed this out to help keep people aware and safe, but climbing is something where you gauge your own level of risk, it's up to people, not community overseers to determine that. That's my opinion, and it may of course not be shared, but having your own view on something is also a choice you get to make.

I've made as many accommodations as I think are fair, not publishing it because I didn't ask permission or I'm not a proper climber or paid some sort of ephemeral 'dues' with the locals wasn't one of them.

I had oodles of fun explaining my position and rationale in significant depth in this interview, so if you want to formulate an opinion and can endure my accent, give it a listen and then if you still disagree, that's fine.

TTFN

Bruce

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  • 1 month later...

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