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[TR] Lundin Peak - West Ridge 10/27/2020

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Trip: Lundin Peak - West Ridge

Trip Date: 10/27/2020

Trip Report:


Went up to check out a climb that I've heard is pretty mellow in the summer. Thought I would share conditions as things begin to change.


Went up the Snoqualmie Mtn and the trail itself had some packed snow/ice where microspikes may have been helpful, but you could do without. Rather than split off on the cave ridge trail (which we missed) we decided to continue up Snoqualmie Mtn trail because it was decently defined and then broke off at about ~6,000 feet traversing south of Snoqualmie Mtn to make our way off-trail to the base of the Lundin West Ridge. There was decent enough snow for walking on the approach, but not enough for skiing/snowshoes and not enough to completely diminish some ankle breakers out there in the larger rocks.

We got to the west ridge and had fun scrambling along the lightly exposed flat spine/ride to the west of it before heading up the steeper ridge, rather than go down and climb up to the ledge from below. Went up the steeper ridge for a pitch or two and there were few fun moves on clean rock. Avoided the slabby downclimb into the notch by taking the "dirt ledge" on the north. The cracks to get to the slabby downclimb were filled with ice/snow and the slab was a little wet so avoided that. The dirt ledge on the north had calf deep snow, which sucked in rock shoes, but was doable.  Got to the notch and was looking up at this section (https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/110422389), but the cracks had snow/ice and was brushing off a little snow on the slabby bits where I could potentially put my feet. Wasn't feeling the wetness/snow on footholds after slipping a few times and lack of cracks so bailed at the notch.

For the descent we went back down the cave ridge trail and definitely glad we didnt go up that way because the trail was hard to follow and lots of off-trail fun.


Overall, the west ridge still had snow/ice on it, but not enough to make it a complete snow climb, but too much to do in just rock shoes. Some snow/ice in the cracks prevented gear placement/movement in some areas. We could have probably gone more to the north with boots, but naively going with rock shoes hurt us. Maybe better in a few days if it melts a bit more, but unsure with the aspect. Have never done mixed climbing, but bet you could get a few tools in those ice cracks.

Gear Notes:
Helmet, ice axe and crampons (unneeded) , single set cams 0.4-3, set of nuts, 5 draws (could use a few more)

Approach Notes:
Snoqualmie Mtn Trail


Going off trail on the approach:



Looking down at Lundin on the approach:



Climbing up the ridge. Went north here into lots of snow to get to the notch:



Looking back on the flat spine. Super fun scramble with a bit of exposure:



Retreating on the flat spine. Looking back at the climb:



The snow was slippery on the descent



Cave ridge trail:



Edited by Grant789
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Nice to see the climb done in interesting conditions, thanks for the report and photos.

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I love this time of year for climbing a peak. Shoulder seasons are the best time for a random peak scramble, although with the way the cascades are these days, Is say Lundin is not considered “random”. 

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