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The Real Nick Sweeney

[TR] Forbidden Peak - Northwest Face 07/25/2020

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Trip: Forbidden Peak - Northwest Face

Trip Date: 07/25/2020

Trip Report:

I had a great time on the NW Face of Forbidden this weekend.  Conditions were great, but it's a long walk back there. Full report with photos:

https://spokalpine.com/2020/07/29/forbidden-peak-nw-face-iv-5-8/

Gear Notes:
Singles .2-2, doubles .3-2

Approach Notes:
Long, but scenic
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Nice!  That is a lot to do in a day! 

But no photos of the mess to get on the toe? What, were you hurrying or something? :shock:

i-JSkF2Bt-X2.jpg

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It actually felt completely reasonable as a single push objective! I’d recommend this strategy to most teams considering the route this time of year. Later in the season, when more shenanigans are required, a bivy would be a good call.

You’re right, I didn’t get any photos of the mess that we had to go through to get to the ridge... it was rather involved. 😅

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Loved reading your write-up, sounds like a fantastic day 🙂

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We were right behind you guys. 3 parties in 2 days is pretty crazy. We had a small hang up after the knife edge, when it steepens before the crux. It seemed like going up the tower led to a more spicy alternative, instead we descended climber's left then up a series of 3rd class rock up to the crux. It seemed like there was rock fall that took out a section of what should have been cruiser 3rd/4th.

How did you guys approach that section, if you remember?

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4 hours ago, seattleskiier said:

3 parties in 2 days is pretty crazy.

It wasn't long ago that 3 parties in 2 years would have been crazy!

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21 hours ago, seattleskiier said:

We were right behind you guys. 3 parties in 2 days is pretty crazy. We had a small hang up after the knife edge, when it steepens before the crux. It seemed like going up the tower led to a more spicy alternative, instead we descended climber's left then up a series of 3rd class rock up to the crux. It seemed like there was rock fall that took out a section of what should have been cruiser 3rd/4th.

How did you guys approach that section, if you remember?

We did the same as you. The team we climbed alongside climbed the tower and they said it was proper 5.8.

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Way to go.  Nice work.  I enjoyed your report site.  Big respect for your climbing discipline.  It's not my approach to climbing mountains (I'm a basic volcano alpinist as part of my high endurance activities) but wish I had time to add rock climbing to my activities.  I'd have good teachers I know, and it looks like a blast.  Really beautiful scenery.

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