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Kyle M

[TR] Mt. Goode - NE Buttress 07/18/2020

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Trip: Mt. Goode - NE Buttress

Trip Date: 07/18/2020

Trip Report:

Climbed the NE Buttress with Steve July 18-20. The trail from Highway 20 was largely brush free until Grizzly Creek, which we crossed easily on a log. From there, it was a brushy caterpillar orgy. The direct approach, climbing just right of the leftmost waterfall, was easy and fast. Glacier navigation was simple, although we did cross some blue ice and bridges. We were able to gain the buttress just below the red ledges via a collapsed snow moat.

Climb was great! Plenty of snow patches on the route to fill our bottles with. From the summit we scrambled NW to the next notch and found a huge patch of snow which we melted for abundant water.

Descent was a long day but not too bad. Once down at the 7400 ft heather benches, keep traversing skier's right until reaching the burned ridge that divides the drainages between Storm King and Goode, take that down to the Park Creek Trail.

https://climberkyle.com/2020/07/18/mt-goode-ne-buttress-5-5/

On a side note, it appears from the summit logs that quite a few parties have climbed Megalodon Ridge. Most mentioned that they never found the 5.10 pitches, so perhaps it is easier than 5.10 or these difficulties are simple to circumvent.DSC00882.thumb.JPG.0baec14b33bdbae460a3a3e982287226.JPG

Goode Glacier and NE Buttress.

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On lower route.

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Le Conte and Sloan.

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Forbidden, Eldo, and the Twin Sisters.

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Sahale and the sound.

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Silver Star.

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Douglas Glacier on Logan.

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Rapping down.

 

Gear Notes:
Trail runners, aluminum crampons, and ice ax for the approach. Climbing/approach shoes on route. 60 m 8mm rope. Cams .4-2, 9 slings, tricams, nuts. Oh, and 10 lbs of camera gear (including a full sized tripod) for Steve.

Approach Notes:
When you reach the open valley beneath Goode, ford the river, ascend up easy boulders/snow. Climb the 4th class slabs just right of the leftmost waterfall. Continue upwards through the magical alder tunnel. Eventually you'll emerge into wildflower meadows and then the camps atop the lateral moraines.
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