glassgowkiss Posted July 16, 2020 Share Posted July 16, 2020 Trip: Forbidden - East RidgeTrip Date: 07/15/2020Trip Report: A classic ridge scramble, with about 40 ft of real climbing (on the whole route). There is still a ton of snow, so crampons and ice axe pretty much a must in the morning. East Ledge descent- Raps have good slings, ledges are snow free. Two stream crossings are the crux of the trip. Due to amount of snow, the water volume is still really high. Gear Notes: A small set of stoppers, single set of cams , doubles in finger size (yellow and orange TCU's), one 60m half rope, lots of slings (bring at least 4 double length. Approach Notes: snow is down to tree line in the basin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kameron Posted July 16, 2020 Share Posted July 16, 2020 What a sandbag TR! I ain't no "hard-core"... that ridge seemed pretty full-on when I was on it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 4 hours ago, Kameron said: What a sandbag TR! Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 I have never been on it but I did assist with a rescue on the lower pitches. SOme guy pulled off a big block and got pretty beat up by the fall and the block. His partner found us in the parking lot, then he went down to call 911. By the time we got to boston basin, a small heli did a recon. We got to the victim and he was delirious, babbling, not bleeding badly but in bad shape. We had just made the victim and the other partner anchor more secure, when a larger heli swooped in and dropped off their climbing ranger Kelly. She took over and another EMT was lowered, connected the fellow and they flew away dangling below. that was wild to watch. We then walked the other partners back down to thier car and then back up to boston basin. man I had good legs back then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 I guess I'm with @Kameron, I thought it quite a bit of actual climbing over those towers. But I am definitely not a good rock climber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 @JasonG The climbing was hard but at least the pro was crappy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 Great position, views are spectacular, rock not as solid as Bugs, but not bad. I would feel comfortable doing the whole thing with fivetennies approach shoes. For a solid 5.9 climber it will be mostly a scramble, with short sections of climbing. Enjoyed it a lot. Crux were 2 steam crossings, particularly the second one from the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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