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nic0las

traveling noob seeks climbing buddies for end of June, July

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Posted (edited)

Hello PNW outdoor community,

I already posted this in the newbie section, and I'm sorry if this doesn't really belong here. 

My Goal for this post: get advice, connect with people, try to find people to join who may be doing some of these climbs anyway.

I am planning a trip through the region starting next week around June 10, 2020. im coming up from the south, starting with Shasta, working my way north to Baker, and I'd like to attempt Rainier (monitoring the 10,000'+ elevation ban) and a handful of others on the way. If anyone has experience on the DC route, I'm looking to rope up with some folks who need an extra or would be willing to put up with a pretty fit and determined newbie. 

I'm 32, with a good amount of backpacking experience. JMT, Adirondack 46er with a dozen or so winter summits.  glacier experience limited to guided ascents in the French alps, "Barre Des Ecrins" being the most heavily crevassed and steep terrain I've experienced. Im a slate roofer and carpenter, very comfortable with heights and steep inclines with limited footing, I live in the Adirondacks in upstate NY, good at managing cold. Not hundreds of miles in crampons but enough to own a pair and feel comfortable in most conditions I've researched on the pretty basic routes I'm planning in the cascades. No wilderness first aid, no crevasse rescue, no avalanche training. 

I've been cross training pretty religiously with this volcano trip in mind throughout covid, my intention being to supplement my lack of experience with peak fitness, my weekly routine for April and May has looked like this, increasing weight and intensity where appropriate over the course of the last 8 weeks:

Mondays: 1.5-2 hrs power Yoga + stretching 

Tuesdays: 1hr interval training legs and cardio, heart rate between 70 to 90% of max for the duration (probably the hardest thing I do all week)

Wednesdays: 1 hr upper body strength training, focusing on core and upper body, heart rate 60 to 80% of max 

Thursdays: mountain biking 1600-2000ft gain, 8-12 miles, 1-2 hrs 

Fridays: stretching, day of rest

Saturdays + Sundays: overnight backpacking, 40lb pack, sleeping around 10,000 feet, between 9-17 miles on both days, 2000 - 9000 ft gains per day. 

last weekend: started Saturday around 300ft in Palm Springs, up 9000ft, 10.3 miles, 7 hrs moving 1hr stopped, av speed 1.5 mph, camped around 9300ft. Day two, 7 peaks @ 10,000'+ : Cornell, Miller, Jacinto (max of the day @ 10800ft), Folly, Drury, Jean, Marion and exited at Idyllwild around 5600ft, 14 miles, 6 miles bushwhacking or scrambling, 8 miles on trail, 3000ft of gains, 6300ft loss, 3 summits I was able to do packless. 

weekend before last: started Saturday around 6200ft at Vivian creek, summited 2 peaks: Gorgonio (max of the day @ 11,500') and Jepson, 9 mi total, av speed 1.9 mph, 4h45min moving 20min stopped, ~5500' gain, camped above 10,000'. Day two, 7 peaks @ 10,000'+:  little Charlton, Charlton, Shields, Anderson, Alto diablo, San Bernardino East, San Bernardino, exited at angelus oaks, 16.5 miles, 2000' up, 7200' down, moving 8hrs stopped 36 min, av speed 2mph. (11mi bike ride back to car)

call/text me if you are interested in meeting a total stranger and letting me tag along on any of your standard PNW volcano climbs. yes ax, yes helmet, yes crampons, no rope, no harness   

617 990 6065

Nicolas 

Edited by nic0las

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https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.76284790039062&lat=46.84657335127747

If this forecast continues I think you are going to want to rethink you plans for the PNW.  Later in June or early July will likely have better weather.  These mountains are not very much fun in unsettled weather,  and can be quite dangerous, no matter your experience level.

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Posted (edited)

Jason,

your presence on this forum is clearly valuable. thank you for what you do, I had no idea there was abnormal weather ripping around the continent.

I'll be heeding the warning and delaying my trip until later June if anyone is interested, don't hesitate to reach out.

Nicolas

Edited by nic0las

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No problem Nicolas, I am just trying to prevent you from running into trouble.  Good weather on the big volcanoes is very important and stacks the odds in your favor.  Over the years there have been a number of accidents with poor weather as a significant contributing factor.

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