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bedellympian

question New winter boot recommendations

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Looking at new boots for lower 48 winter climbing (Cascades alpine routes and Rockies ice/mixed). I've used Nepals for years and am finally thinking I should get something lighter that also climbs better. I have a relatively wide forefoot but otherwise a low volume foot with a high arch. This would ideally be used for everything from dry tool sport cragging to long waterfall ice routes in the Rockies to alpine routes in the Cascades. I know nothing is perfect but a light, dry, war, durable boot that climbs and hikes well would be ideal.

I'm currently considering Arc'teryx Acrux but concerned about how well it climbs (at least well enough to crank WI5 M7 without being a disadvantage?).

Also, the Scarpa Phantom Tech but concerned about durability of the sole and zipper (yes this thing needs to be able to hike on dirt, scramble rocks, and get put through the wringer).

Was looking at the LaSportiva G5 but that thing seems to be crap in water resistance so I'm probably ruling it out? Unless there is a good mod to fix that? 

Thoughts?

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I use Sportiva trango ice cubes. I size them a half size bigger than other stuff I wear with Sportiva to allow a thicker sock and keep the toe bashing down. Ive worn them in winter here in the Cascades without issue except for the coldest days. I can only think of one time that I've worn them that my feet have felt slightly cold. Apparently theres some durability issue with the lace hooks at the top, but I haven't had any break. I don't lace up that tight I guess. The water proofness is pretty good on them. I think they are a great boot for Cascades fall through spring in normal temps.  One thing I wish was different is that I would like to see the integrated gaiter go a bit higher. I bought a pair of G5's this season to have a warmer boot in the quiver, in the same size, and they fit great. Slightly wider than the trango last. Haven't used them yet though...

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I have a relatively wide forefoot but otherwise a low volume foot with a high arch.

51 minutes ago, bedellympian said:

Looking at new boots for lower 48 winter climbing (Cascades alpine routes and Rockies ice/mixed). I've used Nepals for years and am finally thinking I should get something lighter that also climbs better. I have a relatively wide forefoot but otherwise a low volume foot with a high arch. This would ideally be used for everything from dry tool sport cragging to long waterfall ice routes in the Rockies to alpine routes in the Cascades. I know nothing is perfect but a light, dry, war, durable boot that climbs and hikes well would be ideal.

Thoughts?

Scarpa Phantom 6000 ticks all the boxes. I have a similar shaped foot and Scarpas fit me well. I've not used it a lot, but I have not had any durability issues, but I don't expect to get the same mileage I got out of my Invernos.  Currently 50% off at Backcountry.com

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I think you stick with whatever company fits your foot and then choose the best model for your desires.  Footwear has to fit otherwise the features are pretty moot. 

In my case it has to be LaSportiva.  Nothing else fits as well from the major companies.

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I have a pair of Salewa Vulture Vertical boots for winter and they fit my wide, high arched foot very nicely.  I think Ascent Outdoors has a bunch of Salewas in stock to try on and top notch boot fitters.

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Just FYI the Scarpa Phantom Tech was updated last year (2019).  The new version supposedly fixes the durability issues with the sole and zipper.  Obviously I don't think it has been out long enough for anyone to truly know but might be worth looking into what exactly got changed.

Personally I have the old version of the Tech and really like it.  It is lighter, more waterproof, and I think warmer than my Nepals.  I have also worn the Scarpa 6000 a bit.  It is definitely a heavier and warmer version of the Tech.  But it doesn't walk as nice nor do I feel very nimble to like scramble rock on an approach.  I have multiple climbing partners with the Sportiva G5.  They all love the boots and say they are very warm.  One of the nice things is the BOA system.....quick and easy adjustment.  One of my buddies loves it because he can loosen his boots at belays on a long multipitch climb.

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On 4/8/2020 at 6:18 PM, mthorman said:

It is definitely a heavier and warmer version of the Tech.  But it doesn't walk as nice nor do I feel very nimble to like scramble rock on an approach. 

I have the Phantom 6000, not sure what vintage, a couple of years old though. The sole is very flat - no rocker, so hiking on trails or roads is not as comfortable. The sole is very rigid, which is nice for ice climbing. 

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I have only heard good things about the new Scarpa Phantom Techs. From what I understand, they are lighter and more sensitive than the comparable Sportiva models. The new Phantom Tech also has a more durable sole than the previous generation. I've been using the Sportiva Baturas for a few seasons and I find them to be somewhat clumsy but warm. Some of my friends also use the Arcteryx Arcrux to pretty good success. I have seen the Acrux climb techy M8 and funky WI6 on a strong climber. I would go with the new Phantom Techs, just make sure the sizing is correct because I think they changed that a little bit too. The Scarpas are going to climb better than Sportiva and are still plenty warm for Canadian winters. 

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