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Torre Principal, Baralochie - route question


Jim

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I'm conducting some research for a book.   I climbed the normal (10a) route back in 1995.   At that time on the final headwall there was an aid system - about 1 foot-long pieces of rebar stuck out, glued into holes, so that if you could not manage the 10a you could yard up on the very widely spaced rebar.  If I remember correctly, there were limited bolts so you also could sling the rebar.  This section may be harder than the 10a part of the final pitch, my memory is getting fuzzy.

I've searched around and have not found any information about this.  Recent trip reports make no mention of the rebar so I assume these have been cut and it appears additional bolts were added for safety.

Does anyone know if there were put up on the first ascent?  

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Well, that was quick - thanks.

 

The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.

 

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On 2/5/2020 at 12:31 PM, Jim said:

Well, that was quick - thanks.

 

The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.

 

17192161_10155150648004874_7689911053331614658_o.thumb.jpg.cebca13db831531bae0c6b9763757778.jpg

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