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kmfoerster

[TR] Eldorado Peak - NW Couloir 11/02/2019

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Trip: Eldorado Peak - NW Couloir

Trip Date: 11/02/2019

Trip Report:

 

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Yesterday my friend and I climbed the NW Couloir of Eldorado Peak. Left town early morning Saturday and started hiking around 6:30. Used the log crossing directly across from the parking lot.

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Didn't investigate any of the others down stream but the recent culvert work on the road might have affected them. Currently snow starts at the tree line and no floatation is needed. Its very firm on all aspects/elevations. Theres an occasional loose dry pocket here and there. Hiked up to the toe of the east ridge and dropped off bivy gear. Started the trek over to the Eldorado/Dean col shortly after.

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Rapped out of the col with one 60m rap since we brought the twin ropes. Theres currently a two piton anchor at the top of the col with fresh cord. I didn't notice any other existing rap stations on the way down, but we weren't really looking. Dropped down a bit towards the bergschrund and got the first glimpses of the route, which looked to be in really great shape.

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We climbed it in three pitches followed by one simul block. The first pitch was the thinnest and protection was very sparse. The second and third pitches protected well and consisted of perfect neve with thick, vertical steps of ice. After that the angle of the couloir eased off we we decided to just simul the rest. Again, perfect neve with easier steps of thick ice.

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We got up to the flat spot below the summit ridge, ate and packed the ropes up. We arrived at the summit just as the sun was setting and were rewarded with a wonderful clear sunset that lasted all the way back down to us arriving at our camp.

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We were pretty damn tired when we got back. Hiked out this morning without issue, snow travel was still very easy. On the way out we ran into another group of two planning to climb it. This was such an amazing climb. Perfect conditions, perfect weather. Easily in my top ten routes. Looks like its supposed to stay nice for a bit longer, get on it if you can!

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Gear Notes:
Cams to 2" (used mostly .3 through .75), assortment of pins, small set of nuts, ice screws 1x10, 3x13, 2x16 (used every size, would maybe toss another stubby on there). Ice tools and crampons. 60m rope(s)

Approach Notes:
Trail runners to the tree line. No floatation needed.
  • Rawk on! 3

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Nice work, I’m surprised the route was so well formed this early.  Did you happen to get a look at J’berg, Cascade Peak, or Mixup Peak?  I’m curious how the ice is forming on those peaks.

Thanks,

DPS

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31 minutes ago, DPS said:

Nice work, I’m surprised the route was so well formed this early.  Did you happen to get a look at J’berg, Cascade Peak, or Mixup Peak?  I’m curious how the ice is forming on those peaks.

Thanks,

DPS

Unfortunately I didn't get a good photo of either to show you, but the north faces of those looked pretty plastered from what I could see. 

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Such a classic!!  Glad you got it in good conditions, so much fun!

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Nice work and thank you for the tracks (and beta) to follow! That made things pretty straight forward for us. You also managed to get much better photos of the climbing...

Edited by PorterM

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