Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Kyle M

[TR] Glacier Peak Wilderness - Mt. Berge, East Ridge (IV, 5.8) 08/25/2019

Recommended Posts

Trip: Glacier Peak Wilderness - Mt. Berge, East Ridge (IV, 5.8)

Trip Date: 08/25/2019

Trip Report:

2000 ft of solid granite in a sea of choss? It sounded too good to be true, so two half-Asian Kyles made the trek out to the East Ridge of Berge. We found decent climbing but really cool exposure in a beautiful setting. Unfortunately, we also found rain and clouds where there was supposed to be sun, which added to the adventurous feel of the route. We reached a definite 5.8ish chimney crux at the start of the fifth tower (yes, there are six towers before the summit, starting from the notch to the right of the Twin Gendarmes). The route took us about 6 hours to climb simul climbing almost the entire thing, so if you plan on pitching it out, plan on a long day. Or two.

If you want a little more beta, check out https://climberkyle.com/2019/08/25/mt-berge-e-ridge-5-8/.


Hiking through the burn up the east ridge of Cleator.

DSC07629.thumb.JPG.9c1cf4488f502000fdb8f36e5e7c2748.JPGThe east ridge of Berge from the approach.DSC07648.thumb.JPG.09ef365aa62e617e1695eb33e50904b9.JPG

We climbed up the dirty gully to the right of the twin gendarmes.


Typical ridge terrain.


This was the most fun, exposed climbing.


About to enter the clouds.


Endless towers in the mist.


Beautiful basin between Berge and Buck.


Quite a bit of nasty alder descending from Buck back to the trail.

Gear Notes:
Standard rack of cams. Nuts aren't super helpful but work in some sections.

Approach Notes:
The east ridge of Cleator has burned in the last few years but is still pretty clear so easy to travel. Follow game trails off the ridge to the south around 5600 ft and contour into the basin north of the east ridge of Berge. Easiest descent is down to the Berge-Cleator saddle. Descend from the Buck-Berge saddle like we did at your own risk.
  • Like 1
  • Rawk on! 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this