Jump to content

[TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019


tanstaafl

Recommended Posts

Trip: Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+

Trip Date: 08/15/2019

Trip Report:

 

Got out Friday on this new(ish) Nelson/Whitelaw route; if you're looking for a quick alpine hit you should give it a try. 

 

To find the start, go past the SW Face trad route and continue a short distance to a low angle corner with bolts.  Easy to find.

The route is generously bolted, no need for gear.  It's seven 30m pitches -- we combined 6&7 and you could easily combine 3&4 as well, but I think running 1&2 together would give you some unpleasant rope drag.  I skipped or unclipped a couple of bolts on P2 and still had a little drag at the end of the pitch.  P5 is the crux.  Rap the route with a 60 or downclimb the South Face and circle back around for your gear.

Fun day out and as I'm told "cleardot.gifit's a good training route for anything on Hozomeen."

We ran into Jake the Brit as we were downclimbing the South Face, he said I should post a TR and he'd nag Whitelaw for a topo.  You really don't need one though, just follow the bolts.

 

Action shot looking down P2:

IMG_4408.thumb.JPG.7c8f3cfe3863d42524132766c8834b96.JPG

 

Gear Notes:
13 draws, rope

Approach Notes:
the usual

Edited by tanstaafl
typo
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Rawk on! 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, that made me laugh too when Nelson said that.  Now that I've done it, I'm totally ready for Hozomeen!


CPesci, you really don't need any info that's not in my original post to do the route -- find the start by continuing on past the SW Face trad route to a low angle corner with bolts, then follow the bolts. You're not going to get lost on it, unless you're highly skilled at not seeing bolts!  But if it helps, the bolt count is as follows:  P1 6 bolts. P2-13. P3-5. P4-7. P5-9. P6-5. P7-1.  

 

 

  • Snaffled 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Long time lurker, but figured I'd respond to this since I don't think this thing gets climbed that much. Thank you to the developers on this!

Climbed Tooth Fairy this morning and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing! Loose and lichen-y, but neither as loose nor as covered in lichen as I had expected.

IMG_1493.jpg

IMG_1495.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Had an Absolute blast on this route yesterday. Could see from baker to mt Adams, what a treat.   Super fun, consistent climbing, plum repelling. We tied pitches 2-3,4-5, and 6,7.   A few loose blocks on some of the roofier moves, but all and all a fantastic stress free day out.     

Moderate, bolted, alpine climbs, humans love those!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Has anyone taken a serious look at the SE Buttress of the Tooth?  I've looked at it long and hard for a route over the years and have not seen any obvious crack or dihedral systems.  The roofs on the East Face would tend to push one towards the South Face, but perhaps there is a line to be had on the crest of the SE Buttress if it were protected with bolts/thin pitons? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Went up there yesterday. Great climb and thanks to the developers.

Some thoughts:

Very well bolted and not as dirty as I expected. 5.9 felt like an appropriate grade. 

The approach in the early season was a bitch interesting. Jump down into the moat between the snow and rock and scramble over to the start.

Pitch 2: Took a second to figure out where it was going after shifting left to get on the top of the face. Keep gaining the ledges, going east along the top of the face, cant see some of the bolts while climbing below, but they are there.   

Pitch 3: is missing a hanger on the second bolt, felt like 5.7 with some lichen.

Pitch 5: A loose block to gain the first roof.

Pitch 7: Took some searching to find the single bolt.  Look to the right for a left facing dihedral/block that goes up to the summit. Couldn't find anchors/chains on the summit for the life of me, but it is relatively easy to downclimb/scramble. I used a #0.4 and #0.5 C4 and slung a rock to make an anchor.

 

Great views all around, good holds, fun climb.

Edited by Grant789
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I rope soloed this a few months ago. Due to the impossibility of rope drag in the solo system I was able to link pitches and do the whole route in 3 long pitches and some soloing to the top. I can't speak for the first 20 feet as it was under snow, but the rest of the route was pretty quality. The crux was running with water but there were enough good holds to make it totally manageable.  Raps are straightforward. The skiing in and out was bad...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...