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kmfoerster

[TR] Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct 07/22/2019

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Trip: Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct

Trip Date: 07/22/2019

Trip Report:

 

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Today my friend and I climbed the East Ridge Direct on Forbidden Peak 10.5 hours car to car. Spent last night at the trail head and started hiking very early. We got up into the upper basin around 4ish. I love how quick that trail shoots you out above the tree line. The approach was very manageable in the dark. We got up to the lone gendarme on the ridge and did a quick sorting of gear.

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We simul'd just about all of the route, taking turns leading out simul blocks. I thought the climbing and rock quality to be really good. Especially the 5.7 and 5.8 gendarme pitches along with the knife edge traverse section.

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We summited at 8:30 and stopped to take a few photos and rig the first rappel to get down to the east ledges.

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You see a lot of rap tat below you along the way while you're climbing but don't pay attention to any of those. I highly recommend doing exactly 5 single rope rappels that trend slightly east straight down from the summit. This puts you in easier terrain on the east ledges. I've seen a lot of talk about the ledges being terrifying and stressful. While I agree that they can be loose and manky, and you definitely don't want to fall, they were way more mellow than I was expecting. Just take your time and look for the occasional cairn.

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The decent back down from the start of the ridge to the car felt like it went really quick. This is a stellar route on a classic mountain and we had perfect weather to boot. Awesome day!

Gear Notes:
Single set of cams from .3 to 2", set of stoppers, 4 draws, 7 double length slings.

Approach Notes:
Light axe, aluminum crampons, and trail runners worked perfect.
  • Rawk on! 2

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