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[TR] Sahale - Sahale Glacier/South Face 06/30/2019

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Trip: Sahale - Sahale Glacier/South Face

Trip Date: 06/30/2019

Trip Report:

We (team of 3) arrived at the trailhead around 6am and got moving a bit after. Immediately there was a bear on the trail, and it cut a few switchbacks staying near us as we made our way up. Made it to cascade pass in just over an hour, crossing a few small snow patches, and up to the base of the Sahale glacier by about 9:30 or 10am. Between the pass and the glacier we saw a ton of goats. We ate some food and then roped up. There was one open crevasse on the glacier. 

We started up the glacier, traversing NE, then NW up a short section of easy snow and arriving at the base of the south face on the pyramid. I started up with the rope and scrambled up and slightly right to the base of a corner with a crack which leaned to the left. This looked harder than the 3rd-4th class I was expecting. I had brought some gear and there were good placements all around, so I climbed straight up the corner, jamming my boots into the crack a few times, passing a sketchy weird fixed sling around a chockstone. I felt this went around 5.5 for 20-25 feet or so, and I was happy to have the pro. The rock in the corner was okay, but there was plenty of crumbling rock on the faces around it. After this, I hit a ledge and there was one more awkward move to the summit. We had climbed essentially slightly to the climbers right (5-10ft) of the rappel route. A single rappel with a 60m rope barely brought us right to the base where the snow ended, and we were back at the car by 4pm.



On route:



Forbidden and Eldorado:


Gear Notes:
BD 0.75, #1 Smaller to med nuts 4 draws

Approach Notes:
  • Rawk on! 1

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