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Ian Lauder

[TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 06/15/2019

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Posted (edited)

Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge

Trip Date: 06/15/2019

Trip Report:

 

Climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker on Saturday morning, awesome day.

 

Hiking in we met a climber we knew who said the snow bridge across the Coleman/Deming had collapsed the night before and parties were turning around.  But they saw someone who had rapped into the crevasse and walked out, so we figured one way or another we had a way down. 

Ran into some skiers on their way down who warned us very emphatically that the bridge was out. We were like, okay thanks. Then he repeated "its out, the bridge is OUT".  Okay thanks, we got it.

Got to the snowfield and found a large group of about 6 who were bailing out because they heard the Coleman was out. Okay, on we went.

Got camp setup around the 6600ft football area and had the place to ourselves early afternoon.

2019_6_15_NorthRidge_1_4.jpg.5c6a67a449d246bb455db4bfebdca7b6.jpg

Not much in the way of tracks we could see so we hiked about another 1000ft up to the base of the ridge to log a track and make a bootpath to follow the next morning. We did start to pickup some previous bootprints around the base of the ridge.

Started up around 3:30am on Saturday and got to the base of the climb around 7:30.   Saw previous tracks that came up both the left and right sides of the ridge.  Most went lower around the base so we took that path which worked out great. 

2019_6_15_NorthRidge_1_21.jpg.95b208fafa18b56bdf85f8905d0bc903.jpg

2019_6_15_NorthRidge_1_24.jpg.da011707c4f0bcfe732043620548ae23.jpg

As I was leading up the ice pitch saw a pair coming up behind us.  First people we saw that day.  A guide and his client we leapfrogged the rest of the route with.  As I was belaying up my wife another pair of climbers were getting to the base of the climb, but we never saw them again.  We also saw 3 climbers much further down the ridge but never saw them again either rest of the day. 

2019_6_15_NorthRidge_1_27.jpg.ad747361e4af8e95781d3d42e608fa35.jpg

Got to the summit around 10:30am.  Steep in sections but there was a cruiser bootpath already there.  We only had to kick back in part of the path traversing over toward the base of the climb that had melted out quite a bit.

2019_6_15_NorthRidge_1_23.jpg.a62b1a83104bf3b7fffc80a3f6767f26.jpg

On the way back down the Coleman, as expected, people had figured out the end run and the Coleman/Deming route was just fine.

2019_6_15_NorthRidge_1_37.jpg.a0155d6c6a206dfd5355c85ec31d28a8.jpg

Back at the trailhead ran into another group heading up for the North Ridge who had just left a car shuttle at the Easton trailhead to do a carryover because they heard the Coleman was out.  Bummer they had to do that.

Gear Notes:
60m rope, 3 pickets, 6 screws.

Approach Notes:
While the snowbridge at the end run was in (where I was standing in the pic above) and is the way across it does look like it could collapse further.  And rangers are saying its the worst conditions they have seen in 25 years.  Just an FYI to check your route options before you go.

Edited by Ian Lauder
Approach update
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DUDE, CAN'T YOU LISTEN?  The entire Coleman glacier is OUT!  :lmao:

Interesting that it is that close to being problematic this early in the year....

 

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Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, JasonG said:

DUDE, CAN'T YOU LISTEN?  The entire Coleman glacier is OUT!  :lmao:

Interesting that it is that close to being problematic this early in the year....

 

Yea that was pretty much his reaction. We went back and forth a couple times as he didn't think I understood the gravity of the situation.

Edited by Ian Lauder

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As I was belaying up my wife another pair of climbers were getting to the base of the climb, but we never saw them again

Would be me and my associate.  We followed the same line you took up the cliff, summited at 1:00.  We didn't learn about the snow bridge collapses ourselves until we were almost upon them on the way down :noway:JJS09809.thumb.jpg.77626ebb2a9051e53344621d3423fbf2.jpg

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Yeah, still can get up and down around that crevasse, but it is pretty exposed section to  serac fall. Probably moving fast through that section would be a good idea.  

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Thasiet said:

Would be me and my associate.  We followed the same line you took up the cliff, summited at 1:00.  We didn't learn about the snow bridge collapses ourselves until we were almost upon them on the way down :noway:JJS09809.thumb.jpg.77626ebb2a9051e53344621d3423fbf2.jpg

That's great to hear, we were hoping you guys made it without any issues or that we hadn't kicked any ice down on you. That's a great shot you got of Rodica.

Edited by Ian Lauder

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On 6/17/2019 at 8:36 AM, JasonG said:

DUDE, CAN'T YOU LISTEN?  The entire Coleman glacier is OUT!  :lmao:

We bailed doing it the same day. I wasn't able to convince my partners. There is a good and cheap beer in the area though xD

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